Beginner’s guide to Thread Crochet & a free crochet pattern for coaster

As we have discussed in our earlier posts, basically, there are two types of yarn (decided arbitrarily though..!!) that we crochet with. Regular yarn (any fiber) and thread yarn ( mostly cotton ). Thread  is particularly used to make doilies, table runners and other intricate home décor items. Many crocheters are hesitant to work with thinner yarn such as thread, mostly because, many of them find it too fiddly to work with and also because you have to use hooks of much smaller size (0.3 mm to 1.75 mm) which are slightly different (in terms of length ) than regular yarn hooks. I prefer to work with what is known as “Steel Crochet Hooks”, these hooks are specifically designed to work with threads.

But in fact, it is fun to work with cotton crochet thread and steel hook; it’s like an acquired taste you may say..!! The more you crochet with thread, the more you will love to work with it.

Crochet thread comes in many sizes from size 3 to size 100 (diameter is inversely proportional to number, i.e. size 3 thread has thicker diameter than that of size 10). Size 10 crochet thread is the most commonly used  (classic option) thread and corresponding steel hook used with it, is 1.50 mm.

When you think of thread, you automatically relate it to doily but it doesn’t have to be that way..!! You can crochet any item with thread that you can crochet with yarn. Of course, it may be time consuming and you will require lot of patience, but you can crochet anything with thread.

Also when working with thread, you have to pay more attention to your tension, you have to work little tighter when you are working with thread (ignore if you already are a tight crocheter..!!!) but  not so tight that you may find hard to move through the loops. But yes, you have to work tighter than your regular yarn.

I am not pro at blocking but I almost always block my thread projects with slight touch of starch. It’s a creative process.

If you are an adventurous beginner but are still hesitant to work with thread, you can try my following free coaster pattern. It is lacy, it is vintage and yes, it is adventurous.. This pattern was worked up in the little time I get during my every day train journey that I take to reach my work place.

Eight Petal Lotus ~ A free Coaster Pattern

The Lotus flower is considered sacred in most of the Indian religions, lotus is also one of the eight auspicious signs of Buddhism and Hinduism, the eight petals of the white lotus correspond to the Noble Eightfold Path of the Good Law. Also, Eight petal lotus (Astadala Padma) is the foundation of Indian Meditation Philosophy and is based on the wheel of time (Kaal Chakra). This wheel is composed of eight spokes, each denoting an eightfold path. This is my humble attempt at replicating this beautiful lotus flower.

Material Required:

Any size 10 crochet thread, I used a little thinner than size 10 though.

1.5 mm hook

Tapestry needle for weaving thread

Scissors

Level:

Intermediate Beginner

Gauge:

Gauge is not very critical in this pattern but after round 9 the motif measures around 3 inches.

Finished Size:

Finished size before blocking around 4 and 1/2 inches.

Abbreviation and stitch guide (US terms):

st(s) stitch(es)

ch (chain)

sp (space)

yo (yarn over)

ss (slip stitch)

sc (single crochet)

dc (double crochet)
bl (back loop)

fpdc2tog (front post double crochet 2 together) –yo, insert the hook around the post of indicated st (front to back), yo, draw up loop, yo, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on the hook), yo, insert the hook around the same stitch, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on the hook), yo, pull through all the 3 loops.

Split 6 fptr cluster (split front post treble cluster) – Similar to fptr6tog only difference is, it it worked around the different stitches

fpsc (front post single crochet) 

bpsc (back post single crochet)

Pattern Notes:

*…* around - crochet asterisk marked directions around.

Ch1 does not count as stitch unless otherwise mentioned.

So lets begin…!!!

Instructions: 

Start with MR, if you are not comfortable with working with magic ring, you can chain 6 and slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.

Round 1: 8 sc into the ring. Join with SS in the first dc. {8 sc}

Round 2: CH3 (first dc), dc in the same st, *2dc in next stitch* around. Join with SS into the third ch of ch3 (first dc). {16 dc}

Round 3: Ch1 (not counted as st), bpsc around each dc. Join with SS on to the top of first dc.  {16 bpsc}

Round 4: ch3 (counted as first dc), 2dc in the same st, ch 2, skip next st, *3dc in the next st, ch 2, skip next st* around. Join with SS on to the top of third ch of ch3 (first dc). {24 dc, 8 ch2 sp}

Round 5: ch3 (counted as first dc), dc in the same st, dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, ch2, * 2dc in the next st, dc in the next st, 2dc in the next st, ch2* around. Join with SS into the third ch of ch3. {40 dc, 8 ch2 sp}

Round 6: ch3 (counted as first dc), dc in the same st, dc in the next 3 st, 2dc in the next st, ch2, * 2dc in the next st, dc in the next 3 sts, 2dc in the next st, ch2* around. Join with SS into the third ch of ch3.  {56 dc, 8 ch2 sp}

Round 7: Ch1 (not counted as st), *fpdc2tog around the post of first dc two rounds below (round 5), skip first dc, sc in the next 2 dc, fpdc2tog around the post of third dc two rounds below, skip next dc, sc in the next 2 dc, fpdc2tog around the post of last dc two rounds below, 3sc in the ch2 space*around. Join with SS on the top of first fpdc2tog. {24 fpdc2tog, 56 sc}

Round 8: ch3 (counted as first dc), dc in the next 6 st, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st, * dc in the next 7 stitches, 2dc in the next st, dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st* around. Join with SS into the third ch of ch3.  {96 dc}

Next round will be worked in the back loop and third loop.

Note: Third loop can be found behind the stitch, though this is optional i.e. you can work through back loop only but you get holes when you work through back loop only especially when the stitches are raised or longer as we are working sc, you can work through back loop only. I like the sleek look when you work through back and third loop so I crochet through both the loops. Just a matter of personal choice.

Round 9: Ch1 (not counted as st), sc in the same st, sc in the next 2 stitches, *Split 6 fptr cluster around three fpdc2tog two rounds below (2 fptr around first fpdc2tog leaving one loop each on the hook, next 2 fptr around second fpdc2tog leaving one loop each on the hook, next 2 fptr around third fpdc2tog leaving one loop each on the hook (total no. of loops on the hook - 7), yo and pull through all), skip one stitch, sc in next 11 dc* around. For last repeat, you will have 3 stitches short which have already been worked in the beginning. Join with SS. {8 split fptr cluster, 88 sc}

Round 10: Join with standing fpsc around first split fptr cluster, ch13, *fpsc around split fptr cluster, ch13, skip all sc in between* around, Join with SS into the top of first fpsc. {8 fpsc, 8 ch13 sp}

Round 11: Join with standing sc in the sixth sc of 11 sc group (between 2 split fptr clusters) from round 9, ch13, *skip 11 sts, sc in the next st, ch13* around. Join with SS on to the top of first sc. Fasten off, weave in the ends. {8 sc, 8 ch13 sp}

Round 12: Join with standing sc in any ch11 sp from round 11, *ch7, sc in next ch11 sp from round 10, ch7, sc in next ch11 sp from round 11*around. Join with SS on to the top of standing sc. Fasten off, weave in the ends. {16 sc, 16 ch7 sp}

Round 13: Join with standing sc in any ch7 sp, *ch7, sc in next ch7 sp*around. Join with SS on to the top of standing sc. {16 sc, 16 ch7 sp}

Round 14: Ch1 (not counted as st), *9 sc in ch7 sp, skip sc* around. Join with SS on to the top of first sc. Fasten off.  {144 sc}

Round 15: Join with ch2 in the second st (skip first st), dc in the next st (first dc2tog), dc2tog over next 14 sts, skip last dc, *pc in the next st, ch1, picot,ch1, pc in the next st, skip first dc, dc2tog over next 16 st, skip last dc* around. Pc in the next st, ch1, picot,ch1, pc in the next st. Join with SS into the top of first dc2tog (on the top of 2^nd dc basically). Fasten off, weave in your ends. {PC, 16 ch1 sp, 8 picot, 64 dc2tog}

Block your coaster with diluted liquid starch for better results.

Hope you will enjoy making these little coasters as much I enjoy designing them.

That's all for the day..!! And now for today's WoW (Words of Wisdom)

Following quote is taken from "Rise Up and Salute the Sun" by Suzy Kassem. She is such a prolific writer, I like to read her work. Mysticism and wisdom flows through her veins.... One of her quote, "Nothing truly dies. All energy simply transforms.." is one of my favorite.

Whichever holidays you are enjoying in your part of the world (Summer/Winter), always be like a Lotus flower.
 

Love,

Jk

 

Life is worth living, it's about being happy anyways...!!!

Happy Holidays. Happy Crocheting.