"Lilliandil" ~~ Fourth Square in the series "In Love With Granny"

Hello yarnians, welcome again..!!

We have already completed three squares in our series and today I am going to publish fourth one, “Lilliandil”. 

When I first announced that I will be publishing 9 Granny Squares every 15 days, I was little skeptical whether I would be able to design and write the pattern within stipulated time but I think once you decide and start acting on it, things somehow fall into their places & here I am releasing pattern for fourth square..!!

Lilliandil is very special to me for many reasons, firstly because Lillian in Lilliandil is very significant name in my life, Lillian is the name of my very dear friend who passed away last year after fighting a bitter fight with Cancer. I dedicate this square to her.

"Wherever you are, you know that you are very special to me and you are missed every day."

Secondly, this square is little different from traditional Granny Square. I like the squares which are flower centric, and I am back with flower centric design with this pattern, it also has a touch of overlay crochet.

And lastly, I have picked this name from one my favorite book, “Chronicles of Narnia”, “Lilliandil” is Ramandu’s daughter & is a part-star. She first appears in the book, “Voyage of the Dawn Trader”.

So coming back to our pattern, as with all my previous squares, this square size too is 10’’ square made in fingering weight yarn. I have kept final stitch count of all the squares same so you can join them letter to make Blanket or Table Runner or anything you wish to make.

Material Required:

Your favorite yarn and a matching hook, I used 3 mm hook with fingering weight yarn

Tapestry needle to weave in the ends

Scissors

Level:

Enthusiastic beginner

Finished size:

10" with fingering weight yarn and 3 mm hook

Abbreviation and stitch guide (US terms):

st (stitch) sts (stitches)

ch (chain)

sts (slip stitch)

yo (yarn over)

sp (space) sps (spaces)

sc (single crochet)

dc (double crochet)

hdc (half double crochet)

htr (half treble crochet)

bpdc (back post double crochet)

fpdc (front post double crochet)

fptr (front post treble) – yo × 2 times, insert hook around the indicated st, (yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 3 times

fphtr (front post half treble) – yo × 2 times, insert hook around the indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through all 3 loops.

puff St – yo × 3

fp-puff – yo × 4 around indicated st

puff2tog – yo × 3 in the indicated st, yo, pull through all loops but one, yo × 3 in the next indicated st, yo, pull through all loops but one, yo, pull through all the loops, ch1 to close.

Popcorn st – (5dc –pc)

Split Cluster – Split cluster is worked around different sts, keeping one loop on the hook, yo, pull through all the loops, ch1 to close. The placement of the sts is explained in the round itself.

Colorway:

I have used yarn from my stash.

Pattern Notes:

Join rounds with slip stitches in the first st made unless otherwise noted.

Pattern repeats are marked within round with any of the following: **, (), {}.

Stitch count for each round are listed at the end of the round.

Groups of stitches are marked in parenthesis () or {}.

Please go through the "STITCH GUIDE & ABBREVIATIONS" section before you begin. All stitches in this pattern are listed and/or explained in this section unless they are explained within the round itself.

I have done my best to make sure this pattern is accurate. However, if you find any errors or typographical mistake or have any query with regard to the pattern, please drop me an email on hooksbooksnme@gmail.com

In most of the rounds I start by saying, start your round with standing st and the position where the stitch has to be placed; this is just a starting instruction and should not be counted as a st . Moreover, you can start the round with slip st and corresponding chains for a standing st (such as ch3 for dc, ch4 for tr and so on)

Please block your work after finishing and weaving in all the ends.

Instructions:

Start with double magic ring. If you are not comfortable working with MR then you may chain 6 and ss in the first ch to form a loop.

ROUND 1 (Yellow)

Work 8 sc's in the MR. Join with ss in the first sc ~   8 sc

ROUND 2 (Yellow)

Ch1, *2 sc in each st* around. Join with ss in the first sc made..      ~ 16 sc

ROUND 3 (Pink)

Start this round with standing dc (first dc of 5dc-pc) in the first sc of any sc increase of previous round, *5dc-pc in any st, ch2, skip next sc* around. Join with ss in the first popcorn made..                      ~ 8 popcorn st, 8 ch2 sps

ROUND 4 (Yellow)

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, * sc in ch2 sp, dc in the skipped st from previous round, sc in the same sp, fpsc around pc st* around. Join with ss in the first sc made..      ~ 16 sc, 8 dc, 8 fpsc

ROUND 5 (Lavender)

Start with standing hdc in st after dc (sc made after dc in the previous round), hdc in the next 2 sts, *ch3, skip dc from previous round, hdc in the next 3 sts* repeat from * to * 7 more time, ch3, skip next dc. Join with ss in the first hdc made..             ~ 24 hdc, 8 ch3 sps

ROUND 6 (Yellow)

In this round, we are going to work Split cluster over dc's worked in round 4, 3 hdc's from round 5. Please note, first tr of next split cluster will be worked in the same dc in which last tr of previous split cluster is made.

*Work following sts keeping one loop each on the hook, (tr in the skipped dc, fpdc over next 3 hdc's, tr in the next skipped dc), you will have 6 loops on the hook, yo, pull through all loops, ch1 to close, ch4*, repeat from * to * 8 time.Join with ss in the first cluster made..         ~ 8 split clusters, 8 ch4 sps

ROUND 7 (Purple)

Start with standing dc in any ch3 sp from round 5, *5 dc in the ch3 sp of round 5, ch1, fpsc around split cluster from previous round, ch1*, repeat from * to * 8 times. Join with ss in the first dc made.           ~ 40 dc, 8 fpsc, 16 ch1 sps

ROUND 8 (Pink)

Start with standing fpsc around any fpsc from previous round, * fpsc around fpsc, ch1, (skip dc, yo × 3 puff st in between two dc's, ch1) × 4 times, skip next dc*, repeat from * to * 8 times. Join with ss in the first fpsc made.   ~ 8 fpsc, 32 puffs, 40 ch1 sps

ROUND 9 (Lavender)

Start with standing fpdc around first dc of 5dc group from round 7, *fpdc around first dc of round 7 , fpsc around puff, fphtr around next dc of round 7, fpsc around next puff, fptr around next dc from round 7, fpsc around next puff, fphtr around next dc from round 7, fpsc around next puff, fpdc around next dc from round 7*, repeat from * to * 8 times. Join with ss in the first fpdc made.                ~ 16 fpdc, 16 fphtr, 8 fptr, 32 fpsc

ROUND 10 (Sky Blue)

This entire round is worked in the ch1 sps from round 8.

Start with puff in ch1 sp before any fpsc, *yo × 3 puff  in the ch1 sp before fpsc from round 8 (keep one loop on the hook), skip fpsc, yo × 3 puff in the next ch1 sp (keep one loop on the hook), 3 loops on the hook, YO and pull through all the 3 loops, (3 dc in the next ch1 sp)× 3 times, (skip all the sts in between)* repeat from * to * 8 time. Join with ss in the first tr made.         ~ 8 puff2together, 72 dc

ROUND 11 (Royal Blue)

Start with standing bpdc around first puff of puff2together made in the previous round, * bpdc around first puff, bpdc around next puff, bpdc around next 9 sts* repeat from * to * 8 times. Join with ss in the first st made.            ~ 88 bpdc

ROUND 12 (Yellow)

In this round, our circle will be transformed into square. 

Start working in the bpdc that is worked after second puff of round 10 (first dc of 3 dc group falling next to second puff),* tr in the st, dc in the next 3 sts, hdc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 6 sts, hdc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next 3 sts, tr in the next st, 2 tr in the next st, ch2, 2 tr in the next st, * repeat * to * 8 times. Join with ss in the first st made.                    ~ 24 tr, 24 dc, 24 hdc, 24 sc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 13 (Pink)

Start with standing fpdc in first st after ch2 sp of previous round, *fpdc in next 24 sts, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in corner ch2 sp* around. Join with ss in the first fpdc made.          ~ 96 fpdc, 8 hdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 14 (Royal Blue)

This entire round is worked in the opposite direction without turning.

Join the new yarn with ss in the st after ch2 sp, *RSC in the previous st till the end of one side, ch3, skip ch2 sp* around. Join with ss in the first rsc made.     

ROUND 15 (Lavender)

This entire round except for corner is worked in the round 12.

Join your yarn in the first st after ch2 sp of round 12 (working behind round 13), *2 dc in the st, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 20 sts, 2 dc in the st, 2 dc in the next st, (2 hdc in the ch2 sp of round 14, ch2, 2 hdc in the same ch2 sp of round 14)* around. Join with ss in the first dc made.                ~ 112 dc, 16 hdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 16 (Purple)

This entire round is worked between the sts.

Start with a standing hdc in any ch2 sp, *(hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp, skip next st, ch1, (hdc in between next 2 sts, ch1, skip next sp) × 15 times, hdc in between next 2 sts, skip last st, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first hdc made..                         ~ 72 hdc, 4 ch2 sps, 68 ch1 sps

ROUND 17 (Royal Blue)

Start with beginning puff in any ch2 sp, * (puff, ch2, puff) in ch2 sp, ch1, (puffs in the next ch1 sps, ch1) × 6 times, (dc in next ch1 sp, ch1) × 5 times,  (puffs in the next ch1 sps, ch1) × 6 times * around. Join with ss in the first puff made.              ~ 56 puff sts, 20 dc, 4 ch2 sps, 72 ch1 sps

ROUND 18 (Lavender)

This entire round is worked between the sts.

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, (hdc, ch3, hdc) in ch2 sp, * (ch1, hdc in next ch1 sp) × 18 times, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.         ~ 80 hdc, 4 ch3 sps, 76 ch1 sps

ROUND 19 (Pink)

Start with standing hdc in ch3 sp, *(hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp, fpdc around next 2 sts, (push the ch1 sp of previous round back and work 1 dc in the puff from round 17, fpdc around hdc from round 18) × 6 times, dc in the puff,( fp-puff around hdc from previous round, ch1) × 5 times, fp-puff around hdc, (dc in the puff, fpdc around hdc ) × 6 times, dc in the puff, fpdc around next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first hdc made.     ~ 8 hdc, 60 fpdc, 56 dc, 24 fp-puff sts, 20 ch1 sps, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 20 (Sky Blue)

This entire round is worked between the sts.

Start with standing hdc in any ch2 sp, * (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp hdc in between next 15 sps between sts, fphdc around fp-puff, fphdc around next fp-puff, (hdc in between 2 fp-puffs, fphdc around fp-puff) × 3 times, fphdc around last fp-puff, skip sp after fp-puff, hdc in next 15 sps between sts * around. Join with ss in the first hdc made.            ~ 164 hdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 21 (Yellow)

This entire round is worked in bl. If you do not like to have holes in your project, work through bl and third loop.

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in each st across* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.              ~ 172 sc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 22 (Sky Blue)

This entire round is worked in bl.

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in next 2 sts, (sc in next 2 st, fpdc in the st one round below, skip the st, sc in next 2 sts) × 8 times, sc in next st* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.          ~ 148 sc, 32 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 23 (Yellow)

This entire round is worked in bl.

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in next 3 sts, (sc in next st, fpdc in the st one round below, skip the st, sc in next st, fpdc in the st one round below, skip the st, sc in next st ) × 8 times, sc in next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.       ~ 124 sc, 64 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 24  (Sky Blue)

This entire round is worked in bl.

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in next 4 sts, (sc in next 2 st, fpdc in the st one round below, skip the st, sc in next 2 sts) × 8 times, sc in next 3 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.      ~ 164 sc, 32 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 25 (Pink)

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in each st across * around. Join with ss in the first sc made.  ~ 204 sc, 4 ch2 sps

And your fourth square in our “In Love With Granny” series is done..!!

Thank you for choosing my pattern.

And now it is time for today’s WoW (Words of Wisdom).

The above quote is taken from “Chronicles of Narnia by C. S. Lewis”. Chronicles of Narnia (I have a copy of a complete set of all seven book arranged chronologically)  was my first book which introduced me to Fantasy Genre and since then it has become my all-time favorite along with LOTR.

Hope you are enjoying my patterns as well as some bits of reading from here and there.!

Also this is my last blog post for 2019, see you in Roaring Twenties..!!

Happy crocheting..!!