"Lilliandil" ~~ Fourth Square in the series "In Love With Granny"

Hello yarnians, welcome again..!!

We have already completed three squares in our series and today I am going to publish fourth one, “Lilliandil”. 

When I first announced that I will be publishing 9 Granny Squares every 15 days, I was little skeptical whether I would be able to design and write the pattern within stipulated time but I think once you decide and start acting on it, things somehow fall into their places & here I am releasing pattern for fourth square..!!

Lilliandil is very special to me for many reasons, firstly because Lillian in Lilliandil is very significant name in my life, Lillian is the name of my very dear friend who passed away last year after fighting a bitter fight with Cancer. I dedicate this square to her.

"Wherever you are, you know that you are very special to me and you are missed every day."

Secondly, this square is little different from traditional Granny Square. I like the squares which are flower centric, and I am back with flower centric design with this pattern, it also has a touch of overlay crochet.

And lastly, I have picked this name from one my favorite book, “Chronicles of Narnia”, “Lilliandil” is Ramandu’s daughter & is a part-star. She first appears in the book, “Voyage of the Dawn Trader”.

So coming back to our pattern, as with all my previous squares, this square size too is 10’’ square made in fingering weight yarn. I have kept final stitch count of all the squares same so you can join them letter to make Blanket or Table Runner or anything you wish to make.

Material Required:

Your favorite yarn and a matching hook, I used 3 mm hook with fingering weight yarn

Tapestry needle to weave in the ends

Scissors

Level:

Enthusiastic beginner

Finished size:

10" with fingering weight yarn and 3 mm hook

Abbreviation and stitch guide (US terms):

st (stitch) sts (stitches)

ch (chain)

sts (slip stitch)

yo (yarn over)

sp (space) sps (spaces)

sc (single crochet)

dc (double crochet)

hdc (half double crochet)

htr (half treble crochet)

bpdc (back post double crochet)

fpdc (front post double crochet)

fptr (front post treble) – yo × 2 times, insert hook around the indicated st, (yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 3 times

fphtr (front post half treble) – yo × 2 times, insert hook around the indicated st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through all 3 loops.

puff St – yo × 3

fp-puff – yo × 4 around indicated st

puff2tog – yo × 3 in the indicated st, yo, pull through all loops but one, yo × 3 in the next indicated st, yo, pull through all loops but one, yo, pull through all the loops, ch1 to close.

Popcorn st – (5dc –pc)

Split Cluster – Split cluster is worked around different sts, keeping one loop on the hook, yo, pull through all the loops, ch1 to close. The placement of the sts is explained in the round itself.

Colorway:

I have used yarn from my stash.

Pattern Notes:

Join rounds with slip stitches in the first st made unless otherwise noted.

Pattern repeats are marked within round with any of the following: **, (), {}.

Stitch count for each round are listed at the end of the round.

Groups of stitches are marked in parenthesis () or {}.

Please go through the "STITCH GUIDE & ABBREVIATIONS" section before you begin. All stitches in this pattern are listed and/or explained in this section unless they are explained within the round itself.

I have done my best to make sure this pattern is accurate. However, if you find any errors or typographical mistake or have any query with regard to the pattern, please drop me an email on hooksbooksnme@gmail.com

In most of the rounds I start by saying, start your round with standing st and the position where the stitch has to be placed; this is just a starting instruction and should not be counted as a st . Moreover, you can start the round with slip st and corresponding chains for a standing st (such as ch3 for dc, ch4 for tr and so on)

Please block your work after finishing and weaving in all the ends.

Instructions:

Start with double magic ring. If you are not comfortable working with MR then you may chain 6 and ss in the first ch to form a loop.

ROUND 1 (Yellow)

Work 8 sc's in the MR. Join with ss in the first sc ~   8 sc

ROUND 2 (Yellow)

Ch1, *2 sc in each st* around. Join with ss in the first sc made..      ~ 16 sc

ROUND 3 (Pink)

Start this round with standing dc (first dc of 5dc-pc) in the first sc of any sc increase of previous round, *5dc-pc in any st, ch2, skip next sc* around. Join with ss in the first popcorn made..                      ~ 8 popcorn st, 8 ch2 sps

ROUND 4 (Yellow)

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, * sc in ch2 sp, dc in the skipped st from previous round, sc in the same sp, fpsc around pc st* around. Join with ss in the first sc made..      ~ 16 sc, 8 dc, 8 fpsc

ROUND 5 (Lavender)

Start with standing hdc in st after dc (sc made after dc in the previous round), hdc in the next 2 sts, *ch3, skip dc from previous round, hdc in the next 3 sts* repeat from * to * 7 more time, ch3, skip next dc. Join with ss in the first hdc made..             ~ 24 hdc, 8 ch3 sps

ROUND 6 (Yellow)

In this round, we are going to work Split cluster over dc's worked in round 4, 3 hdc's from round 5. Please note, first tr of next split cluster will be worked in the same dc in which last tr of previous split cluster is made.

*Work following sts keeping one loop each on the hook, (tr in the skipped dc, fpdc over next 3 hdc's, tr in the next skipped dc), you will have 6 loops on the hook, yo, pull through all loops, ch1 to close, ch4*, repeat from * to * 8 time.Join with ss in the first cluster made..         ~ 8 split clusters, 8 ch4 sps

ROUND 7 (Purple)

Start with standing dc in any ch3 sp from round 5, *5 dc in the ch3 sp of round 5, ch1, fpsc around split cluster from previous round, ch1*, repeat from * to * 8 times. Join with ss in the first dc made.           ~ 40 dc, 8 fpsc, 16 ch1 sps

ROUND 8 (Pink)

Start with standing fpsc around any fpsc from previous round, * fpsc around fpsc, ch1, (skip dc, yo × 3 puff st in between two dc's, ch1) × 4 times, skip next dc*, repeat from * to * 8 times. Join with ss in the first fpsc made.   ~ 8 fpsc, 32 puffs, 40 ch1 sps

ROUND 9 (Lavender)

Start with standing fpdc around first dc of 5dc group from round 7, *fpdc around first dc of round 7 , fpsc around puff, fphtr around next dc of round 7, fpsc around next puff, fptr around next dc from round 7, fpsc around next puff, fphtr around next dc from round 7, fpsc around next puff, fpdc around next dc from round 7*, repeat from * to * 8 times. Join with ss in the first fpdc made.                ~ 16 fpdc, 16 fphtr, 8 fptr, 32 fpsc

ROUND 10 (Sky Blue)

This entire round is worked in the ch1 sps from round 8.

Start with puff in ch1 sp before any fpsc, *yo × 3 puff  in the ch1 sp before fpsc from round 8 (keep one loop on the hook), skip fpsc, yo × 3 puff in the next ch1 sp (keep one loop on the hook), 3 loops on the hook, YO and pull through all the 3 loops, (3 dc in the next ch1 sp)× 3 times, (skip all the sts in between)* repeat from * to * 8 time. Join with ss in the first tr made.         ~ 8 puff2together, 72 dc

ROUND 11 (Royal Blue)

Start with standing bpdc around first puff of puff2together made in the previous round, * bpdc around first puff, bpdc around next puff, bpdc around next 9 sts* repeat from * to * 8 times. Join with ss in the first st made.            ~ 88 bpdc

ROUND 12 (Yellow)

In this round, our circle will be transformed into square. 

Start working in the bpdc that is worked after second puff of round 10 (first dc of 3 dc group falling next to second puff),* tr in the st, dc in the next 3 sts, hdc in the next 3 sts, sc in the next 6 sts, hdc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next 3 sts, tr in the next st, 2 tr in the next st, ch2, 2 tr in the next st, * repeat * to * 8 times. Join with ss in the first st made.                    ~ 24 tr, 24 dc, 24 hdc, 24 sc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 13 (Pink)

Start with standing fpdc in first st after ch2 sp of previous round, *fpdc in next 24 sts, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in corner ch2 sp* around. Join with ss in the first fpdc made.          ~ 96 fpdc, 8 hdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 14 (Royal Blue)

This entire round is worked in the opposite direction without turning.

Join the new yarn with ss in the st after ch2 sp, *RSC in the previous st till the end of one side, ch3, skip ch2 sp* around. Join with ss in the first rsc made.     

ROUND 15 (Lavender)

This entire round except for corner is worked in the round 12.

Join your yarn in the first st after ch2 sp of round 12 (working behind round 13), *2 dc in the st, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 20 sts, 2 dc in the st, 2 dc in the next st, (2 hdc in the ch2 sp of round 14, ch2, 2 hdc in the same ch2 sp of round 14)* around. Join with ss in the first dc made.                ~ 112 dc, 16 hdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 16 (Purple)

This entire round is worked between the sts.

Start with a standing hdc in any ch2 sp, *(hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp, skip next st, ch1, (hdc in between next 2 sts, ch1, skip next sp) × 15 times, hdc in between next 2 sts, skip last st, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first hdc made..                         ~ 72 hdc, 4 ch2 sps, 68 ch1 sps

ROUND 17 (Royal Blue)

Start with beginning puff in any ch2 sp, * (puff, ch2, puff) in ch2 sp, ch1, (puffs in the next ch1 sps, ch1) × 6 times, (dc in next ch1 sp, ch1) × 5 times,  (puffs in the next ch1 sps, ch1) × 6 times * around. Join with ss in the first puff made.              ~ 56 puff sts, 20 dc, 4 ch2 sps, 72 ch1 sps

ROUND 18 (Lavender)

This entire round is worked between the sts.

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, (hdc, ch3, hdc) in ch2 sp, * (ch1, hdc in next ch1 sp) × 18 times, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.         ~ 80 hdc, 4 ch3 sps, 76 ch1 sps

ROUND 19 (Pink)

Start with standing hdc in ch3 sp, *(hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp, fpdc around next 2 sts, (push the ch1 sp of previous round back and work 1 dc in the puff from round 17, fpdc around hdc from round 18) × 6 times, dc in the puff,( fp-puff around hdc from previous round, ch1) × 5 times, fp-puff around hdc, (dc in the puff, fpdc around hdc ) × 6 times, dc in the puff, fpdc around next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first hdc made.     ~ 8 hdc, 60 fpdc, 56 dc, 24 fp-puff sts, 20 ch1 sps, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 20 (Sky Blue)

This entire round is worked between the sts.

Start with standing hdc in any ch2 sp, * (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp hdc in between next 15 sps between sts, fphdc around fp-puff, fphdc around next fp-puff, (hdc in between 2 fp-puffs, fphdc around fp-puff) × 3 times, fphdc around last fp-puff, skip sp after fp-puff, hdc in next 15 sps between sts * around. Join with ss in the first hdc made.            ~ 164 hdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 21 (Yellow)

This entire round is worked in bl. If you do not like to have holes in your project, work through bl and third loop.

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in each st across* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.              ~ 172 sc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 22 (Sky Blue)

This entire round is worked in bl.

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in next 2 sts, (sc in next 2 st, fpdc in the st one round below, skip the st, sc in next 2 sts) × 8 times, sc in next st* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.          ~ 148 sc, 32 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 23 (Yellow)

This entire round is worked in bl.

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in next 3 sts, (sc in next st, fpdc in the st one round below, skip the st, sc in next st, fpdc in the st one round below, skip the st, sc in next st ) × 8 times, sc in next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.       ~ 124 sc, 64 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 24  (Sky Blue)

This entire round is worked in bl.

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in next 4 sts, (sc in next 2 st, fpdc in the st one round below, skip the st, sc in next 2 sts) × 8 times, sc in next 3 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.      ~ 164 sc, 32 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 25 (Pink)

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in each st across * around. Join with ss in the first sc made.  ~ 204 sc, 4 ch2 sps

And your fourth square in our “In Love With Granny” series is done..!!

Thank you for choosing my pattern.

And now it is time for today’s WoW (Words of Wisdom).

The above quote is taken from “Chronicles of Narnia by C. S. Lewis”. Chronicles of Narnia (I have a copy of a complete set of all seven book arranged chronologically)  was my first book which introduced me to Fantasy Genre and since then it has become my all-time favorite along with LOTR.

Hope you are enjoying my patterns as well as some bits of reading from here and there.!

Also this is my last blog post for 2019, see you in Roaring Twenties..!!

Happy crocheting..!!

                                

                                                           

"Myriad" ~~ Third square in the series "In Love With Granny"

Hello Yarnians, hope all is well in your patch of crochetland.

Today we will be doing third Granny square from our series “In love with Granny” .

“Myriad” is a 25 rounds crochet square which measures 10’’ across, made in fingering weight yarn and 3.00 mm hook. “Myriad” is worked in set of single crochet & front post double crochet (simple & humble !!!). Simple and easy to make, can be completed over a weekend. .

As with the previous two squares “ Chloris” & “Sagitta”, “Myriad” is also made as one base square and a border. Here border is made with alternating puff & front post stitches.

You can easily upsize all the squares to meet your requirement.

Now getting back to the pattern.

Material Required:

Your favorite yarn and a matching hook, I used 3 mm hook with fingering weight yarn

Tapestry needle to weave in the ends

Scissors

Level:

Enthusiastic beginner

Finished size:

10" with fingering weight yarn and 3 mm hook

Abbreviation and stitch guide (US terms):

st (stitch) sts (stitches)

ch (chain)

sts (slip stitch)

yo (yarn over)

sp (space) sps (spaces)

sc (single crochet)

dc (double crochet)

hdc (half double crochet)

htr (half treble crochet)

tr (treble crochet)

bpdc (back post double crochet)

puff st – yo × 3

Popcorn st – (4dc –pc)

Colorway:

Color A  -  Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 16)

Color B  -  Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 80)

Color C  -  Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 15)

Color D -   Lavender 

Pattern Notes:

Join rounds with slip stitches in the first st made unless otherwise noted.

Pattern repeats are marked within round with any of the following: **, (), {}.

Stitch count for each round are listed at the end of the round.

Groups of stitches are marked in parenthesis () or {}.

Please go through the "STITCH GUIDE & ABBREVIATIONS" section before you begin. All stitches in this pattern are listed and/or explained in this section unless they are explained within the round itself.

I have done my best to make sure this pattern is accurate. However, if you find any errors or typographical mistake or have any query with regard to the pattern, please drop me an email on hooksbooksnme@gmail.com or you can join pattern support group on facebook, @Hooksbooksnme Designs Support Group

In most of the rounds I start by saying, start your round with standing st and the position where the stitch has to be placed; this is just a starting instruction and should not be counted as a st . Moreover, you can start the round with slip st and corresponding chains for a standing st (such as ch3 for dc, ch4 for tr and so on)

Please block your work after finishing and weaving in all the ends.

Instructions:

Start with double magic ring. If you are not comfortable working with MR then you may chain 6 and ss in the first ch to form a loop.

ROUND 1 (Color A)

(sc, ch2) × 4 times in MR. Join with ss in the first sc made. ~ 4 sc, 4 ch2 sps   

   

ROUND 2 (Color A)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the next st* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.       ~ 12 sc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 3 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the next st* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.       ~ 20 sc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 4 (Color A)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, skip next st, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.              ~ 24 sc, 4 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 5 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, skip next st, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 28 sc, 8 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 6 (Color A)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 2 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 32 sc, 12 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 7 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 3 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 36 sc, 16 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 8 (Color A)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 4 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 40 sc, 20 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 9 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 5 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 44 sc, 24 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 10 (Color A)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 6 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 48 sc, 28 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 11 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 7 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 52 sc, 32 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

You can stop here if you want coaster size square.

ROUND 12 (Color A)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 8 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 56 sc, 36 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 13 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 9 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 60 sc, 40 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 14 (Color A)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 10 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 64 sc, 44 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 15 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 11 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 68 sc, 48 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 16 (Color A)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 12 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 72 sc, 52 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 17 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 13 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 76 sc, 56 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 18 (Color A)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next st) × 14 times, fpdc in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, sc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 80 sc, 60 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 19 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing sc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp, hdc in the bl of next 2 sts, (fphtr in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, dc in the bl of next st) × 15 times, fphtr in the fl of the st two round below, skip next st, dc in the bl of next 2 sts* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                ~ 84 dc, 64 fphtr, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 20 (Color C)

Start this round with a standing dc in any ch2 sp from round18, *(hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp from round 18, bphdc in each st across* around. Join with ss in the first hdc made.               ~ 8 hdc, 148 bphdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 21 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing dc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(dc, ch2, dc) in ch2 sp, ch1, (skip one st, mini puff in the next st, ch1) × 19 times, skip next st* around. Join with ss in the first dc made.                 ~ 76 mini puffs, 8 dc, 4 ch2 sps, 80 ch1 sps

ROUND 22 (Color C)

Start this round with a standing dc in any ch2 sp from previous round, *(2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in ch2 sp, (dc in the skipped st from previous round (bring the dc to the height of your work), fpsc around puff) × 19 times, dc in the skipped st from previous round* around. Join with ss in the first dc made.                    ~ 96 dc, 76 fpsc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 23 (Color D)

Start this round with a sanding tr in any ch2 sp from round 21, *(2 tr, ch2, 2 tr) in ch2 sp, ch1, (skip next st, mini puff in the bl of the next st, ch1) × 21 times, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first tr made.                     ~ 84 mini puffs, 16 tr, 4 ch2 sps, 88 ch1 sps

ROUND 24 (Color C)

Start this round with a standing dc in the first skipped st from previous round, * (dc in the skipped st from previous round, fpsc sround puff st ) × 21 times, dc in the skipped st from previous round (bring the dc to the height of your work), fpdc around next 2 sts, ch1, 4dc - pc in the ch2 sp from round 22, ch1, fpdc in the next 2 sts * around. Join with ss in the first dc made.                ~ 88 dc, 84 fpsc, 16 fpdc, 8 ch1 sps, 4 pc

ROUND 25 (Color B)

Start this round with a standing bpdc in any st after first ch1 sp, * bpdc around each st across,2 dc in ch1 sp, ch2, 2 dc in next ch1 sp * around. Join with ss in the first bpdc made.                    ~ 88 dc, 84 fpsc, 16 fpdc, 8 ch1 sps, 4 pc

Done & dusted..!!

And now is the time for our today’s WoW (Words of Wisdom), the below quote is by my favorite author J. K. Rowling. taken from the book, “Harry Potter and the chamber of Secrets”. I like her not only for her writings but also for her personal struggle and how she overcame it.

That’s all for the day..!!

Happy Crocheting..!!

Love,

Don’t forget to comment here..!! Join my Facebook group for any queries related to pattern @Hooksbooksnme Designs Support Group.

"Sagitta" ~~ Second square in the series "In Love With Granny"

Hello Friends, welcome again. Thank you for your overwhelming response to "Chloris".

Your kind response is what keeps me going. Being a novice in this field (both crochet pattern designing & blog writing), I did not expect such a kind and positive response (1200+ page views), so thank you again..!!

The second pattern is named after "Sagitta" constellation which lies in the northern sky. Sagitta literally means "Arrow" in Latin.

Sagitta is one of the Greek constellations, belonging to the Hercules family of constellations. It was first catalogued by the Greek astronomer Ptolemy in the 2nd century. It represents Heracles’ arrow in Greek mythology.

More information on Sagitta constellation can be found HERE.

Coming back to our second square in the series "In Love With Granny" - "Sagitta", Sagitta is 23 rounds, 10" crochet square.

Material Required:

Your favorite yarn and a matching hook, I used 3 mm hook with fingering weight yarn.

Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Scissors

Level:

Enthusiastic beginner

Finished size:

10" with fingering weight yarn and 3 mm hook

Abbreviation and stitch guide (US terms):

st (stitch) sts (stitches)

ch (chain)

sts (slip stitch)

yo (yarn over)

sp (space) sps (spaces)

sc (single crochet)

dc (double crochet)

hdc (half double crochet)

htr (half treble crochet)

BPdc (back post double crochet)

FPtr (front post treble) – yo × 2 times, insert hook around the indicated st, (yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 3 times

FPdtr (front post double treble) – yo × 3 times, insert hook around the indicated st, (yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 4 times

FPtrtr (front post triple treble) – yo × 4 times, insert hook around the indicated st, (yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 5 times

puff St – yo × 3

Popcorn st – (4dc –PC) - Make 4 DC in same st, remove hook from lp and insert from front to back of 1st DC and then into dropped lp and pull through. Ch 1 to close. This closing chain is not counted in any chains you are asked to make after the popcorn.

Colorway:

Color A  -  Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 286 (66))

Color B  -  Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 283 (68))

Color C  -  Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 69)

Pattern Notes:

Join rounds with slip stitches in the first st made unless otherwise noted.

Pattern repeats are marked within round with any of the following: **, (), {}.

Stitch count for each round are listed at the end of the round.

Groups of stitches are marked in parenthesis () or {}.

Please go through the "STITCH GUIDE & ABBREVIATIONS" section before you begin. All stitches in this pattern are listed and/or explained in this section unless they are explained within the round itself.

I have done my best to make sure this pattern is accurate. However, if you find any errors or typographical mistake or have any query with regard to the pattern, please drop me an email on hooksbooksnme@gmail.com

In most of the rounds I start by saying, start your round with standing st and the position where the stitch has to be placed; this is just a starting instruction and should not be counted as a st . Moreover, you can start the round with slip st and corresponding chains for a standing st (such as ch3 for dc, ch4 for tr and so on)

Please block your work after finishing and weaving in all the ends.

Instructions:

Start with double magic ring. If you are not comfortable working with MR then you may chain 6 and ss in the first ch to form a loop.

ROUND 1 (Color A) 

Work 8 sc in the MR. Join with ss in first sc ~ 8 sc

ROUND 2 (Color A)

Ch 1, *sc, sc in same st, sc in the next st, ch 2; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 12 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 3 (Color A)

You can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch2), *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in the first dc made. ~ 20 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 4 (Color B)

Start with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 28 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Note: Mark ch-2 sps of this rnd, they will be used in rnd 7.

ROUND 5 (Color A)

Work this round in bl only.

Start with standing dc in any ch-2 sp from rnd 3, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp from rnd 3, dc in next 7 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 36 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 6 (Color A)

Work this round in bl only.

Start with standing dc in any ch-2 sp from rnd 3, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 9 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 44 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 7 (Color B)

Work this round through both the loops.

Start with standing dc in any ch-2 sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, FPtrtr in marked ch-2 sp from rnd 4, sk next st, hdc in next 9 sts, FPtrtr in marked ch-2 sp from rnd 4, sk next st; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 44 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 FPtrtr

ROUND 8 (Color A)

Start with standing dc in any ch2 sp from round 6, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp from rnd 6, BPdc around every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 60 BPdc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 9 (Color A)

You can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch2) after slip stitching in any ch-2 sp from previous round, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 68 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 10 (Color B)

Start with standing hdc in any st falling immediately after ch-2 sp, * hdc in next 2 sts, sk next st, FPdtr around FPtrtr from rnd 7, hdc in next 11 sts, sk next st, FPdtr around FPtrtr from rnd 7, hdc in next 2 sts, dtr in ch-2 sp from rnd 7, ch 2, dtr in same ch-2 sp from rnd 7; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first hdc made. ~ 60 hdc, 8 dtr, 8 FPdtr, 4 ch-2 sp

ROUND 11 (Color A)

Start with standing tr in any ch-2 sp from round 9, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in ch-2 sp from rnd 9, BPdc around every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first tr made. ~ 76 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 12 (Color A)

You can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch2) after slip stitching in ch-2 sp, * (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made.  ~ 100 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 13 (Color B)

Start with standing dc in 8th st after any ch-2 sp from previous round. *dc in next 11 sts, FPdtr around first dtr from rnd 10, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdtr around corner dtr from rnd 10, sk next st, dc in  next 3 sts, dtr in ch-2 sp from rnd 10, ch 2, dtr in same ch-2 sp from rnd 10, dc in next 3 sts, FPdtr in corner dtr from rnd 10, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdtr in next dtr from rnd 10, sk next st; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made.    ~ 84 dc, 16 FPdtr, 8 dtr, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 14 (Color A)

Start with standing tr in any ch-2 sp from rnd 12, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in ch-2 sp from rnd 12, BPdc around every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first tr made.  ~ 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps, 108 BPdc

ROUND 15 (Color A)

You can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch 2) after slip stitching in the ch-2 sp from previous rnd, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 132 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 16 (Color B)

Start with a standing dc in 12th st from ch-2 sp from previous round. *dc in next 11 sts, FPdtr around first FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdtr around next FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 3 sts, FPdtr around corner dtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 3 sts, dtr in ch-2 sp from rnd 13, ch 2, dtr in same ch-2 sp from rnd 13, dc in next 3 sts, FPdtr around corner dtr from round 13, sk next st, dc in next 3 sts, FPdtr around next FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdtr around next FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 108 dc, 24 FPdtr, 8 dtr, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 17 (Color A)

Start with standing tr in any ch-2 sp from rnd 12, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in ch-2 sp from rnd 15, BPdc around every st until next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first tr made. ~ 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps, 140 BPdc

ROUND 18 (Color C)

Start with a standing sc in tr falling immediately after ch-2 sp, * (sc in st, sk next st, ch 1) 18 times, sc in next st, (tr3tog, ch 2, tr3tog) in ch-2 sp from rnd 15 (work this behind ch-2 sp of rnd 16); rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 76 sc, 72 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 tr3tog

ROUND 19 (Color C & Color A)

Start with a standing sc in a tr3tog falling immediately after ch-2 sp *sc in next st, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) 19 times, switch the yarn to Color A, (puff, ch2, puff) in the ch-2 sp from rnd 17, switch the yarn back to Color C; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 76 ch-1 sps, 80 sc, sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 mini puffs

ROUND 20 (Color C & Color B)

Start with standing sc in first puff, *sc in puff from previous round, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) 20 times, ch 2, switch the yarn to Color B, work one 4dc-PC (height raised to current working level) in the ch-2 sp from rnd 17 (in the same space where 2 puffs are worked - in between 2 puffs), switch the yarn back to Color C, ch 2* around. Join with ss in the first sc made. ~ 84 sc, 80 ch1 sps, 4 PC, 8 ch-2 sps

ROUND 21 (Color C)

Start with standing sc in ch-2 sp after pc, *(sc in the ch-sp, sk next st, ch 1) 21 times, sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, FPdc around PC, ch 2, FPdc around same PC, ch 1* around. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 88 sc, 92 ch-1 sps, 8 FPdc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 22 (Color A)

Start with standing dc in FPdc from previous rnd, *dc in next st/sp across, (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made.   ~ 196 dc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 23 (Color C)

Start with a standing BPdc around first st after any ch-2 sp, *BPdc around every st across, tr in ch-2 sp from rnd 21 (work this behind ch-2 sp of rnd 22), ch 2, tr in ch-2 sp from rnd 21; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first BPdc made. ~ 196 bpdc, 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps

And your second square in the series of 9 squares is done..!!

Thank you for choosing my pattern.

And now it is time for today’s WoW (Words of Wisdom).

The above quote is by “Rumi”. If you are following my posts you will know my Love for Rumi. I like to read Rumi, I like to quote from Rumi. Below I have quoted some lines from “The Essential Rumi”.

“My heart is so small

it's almost invisible.

How can You place

such big sorrows in it?

"Look," He answered,

"your eyes are even smaller,

yet they behold the world.”

Hope you are enjoying my patterns as well as some bits of reading from here and there.

Happy crocheting..!!