"Sagitta" ~~ Second square in the series "In Love With Granny"
Hello Friends, welcome again. Thank you for your overwhelming response to
"Chloris".
Your
kind response is what keeps me going. Being a novice in this field (both
crochet pattern designing & blog writing), I did not expect such a kind and positive response (1200+ page views), so thank you again..!!
The
second pattern is named after "Sagitta" constellation which lies in
the northern sky. Sagitta literally means "Arrow" in Latin.
Sagitta
is one of the Greek constellations, belonging to the Hercules family of
constellations. It was first catalogued by the Greek astronomer Ptolemy in
the 2nd century. It represents Heracles’ arrow in Greek mythology.
More
information on Sagitta constellation can be found HERE.
Coming
back to our second square in the series "In Love With Granny" -
"Sagitta", Sagitta is 23 rounds, 10" crochet square.
Material Required:
Your
favorite yarn and a matching hook, I used 3 mm hook with fingering weight yarn.
Tapestry
needle to weave in the ends.
Scissors
Level:
Enthusiastic
beginner
Finished size:
10"
with fingering weight yarn and 3 mm hook
Abbreviation and
stitch guide (US terms):
st
(stitch) sts (stitches)
ch
(chain)
sts
(slip stitch)
yo
(yarn over)
sp
(space) sps (spaces)
sc
(single crochet)
dc
(double crochet)
hdc
(half double crochet)
htr
(half treble crochet)
BPdc
(back post double crochet)
FPtr
(front post treble) – yo × 2 times, insert hook around the indicated st, (yo,
pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 3 times
FPdtr
(front post double treble) – yo × 3 times, insert hook around the indicated st,
(yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 4 times
FPtrtr
(front post triple treble) – yo × 4 times, insert hook around the indicated st,
(yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 5 times
puff
St – yo × 3
Popcorn
st – (4dc –PC) - Make 4 DC in same st, remove hook from lp and insert from front to back of 1st DC and then into dropped lp and pull through. Ch 1 to close. This closing chain is not counted in any chains you are asked to make after the popcorn.
Colorway:
Color
A -
Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 286 (66))
Color
B -
Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 283 (68))
Color
C -
Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 69)
Pattern Notes:
Join
rounds with slip stitches in the first st made unless otherwise noted.
Pattern
repeats are marked within round with any of the following: **, (), {}.
Stitch
count for each round are listed at the end of the round.
Groups
of stitches are marked in parenthesis () or {}.
Please
go through the "STITCH GUIDE & ABBREVIATIONS" section before you
begin. All stitches in this pattern are listed and/or explained in this section
unless they are explained within the round itself.
I
have done my best to make sure this pattern is accurate. However, if you find
any errors or typographical mistake or have any query with regard to the
pattern, please drop me an email on hooksbooksnme@gmail.com
In
most of the rounds I start by saying, start your round with standing st and the
position where the stitch has to be placed; this is just a starting instruction
and should not be counted as a st . Moreover, you can start the round with slip
st and corresponding chains for a standing st (such as ch3 for dc, ch4 for tr
and so on)
Please
block your work after finishing and weaving in all the ends.
Instructions:
Start
with double magic ring. If you are not comfortable working with MR then you may
chain 6 and ss in the first ch to form a loop.
ROUND
1 (Color A)
Work
8 sc in the MR. Join with ss in first sc ~ 8 sc
ROUND
2 (Color A)
Ch 1,
*sc, sc in same st, sc in the next st, ch 2; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 12 sc, 4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
3 (Color A)
You
can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch2), *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in the first dc
made. ~ 20 dc, 4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
4 (Color B)
Start
with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 28 sc, 4 ch-2 sps
Note: Mark ch-2 sps of this rnd, they will be used in rnd 7.
ROUND
5 (Color A)
Work
this round in bl only.
Start
with standing dc in any ch-2 sp from rnd 3, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp from
rnd 3, dc in next 7 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~
36 dc, 4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
6 (Color A)
Work
this round in bl only.
Start
with standing dc in any ch-2 sp from rnd 3, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 9 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~
44 dc, 4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
7 (Color B)
Work
this round through both the loops.
Start
with standing dc in any ch-2 sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, FPtrtr in marked ch-2
sp from rnd 4, sk next st, hdc in next 9 sts, FPtrtr in marked ch-2 sp from
rnd 4, sk next st; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~
44 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 FPtrtr
ROUND
8 (Color A)
Start
with standing dc in any ch2 sp from round 6, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp from
rnd 6, BPdc around every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~
60 BPdc, 4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
9 (Color A)
You
can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch2) after
slip stitching in any ch-2 sp from previous round, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 68 dc, 4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
10 (Color B)
Start
with standing hdc in any st falling immediately after ch-2 sp, * hdc in next 2 sts,
sk next st, FPdtr around FPtrtr from rnd 7, hdc in next 11 sts, sk next
st, FPdtr around FPtrtr from rnd 7, hdc in next 2 sts, dtr in ch-2 sp from
rnd 7, ch 2, dtr in same ch-2 sp from rnd 7; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first hdc made. ~ 60 hdc, 8 dtr, 8 FPdtr, 4 ch-2 sp
ROUND
11 (Color A)
Start
with standing tr in any ch-2 sp from round 9, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in ch-2 sp from rnd
9, BPdc around every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first tr made. ~
76 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
12 (Color A)
You
can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch2) after
slip stitching in ch-2 sp, * (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 100 dc,
4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
13 (Color B)
Start
with standing dc in 8th st after any ch-2 sp from previous round.
*dc in next 11 sts, FPdtr around first dtr from rnd 10, sk next st, dc in
next 2 sts, FPdtr around corner dtr from rnd 10, sk next st, dc in next
3 sts, dtr in ch-2 sp from rnd 10, ch 2, dtr in same ch-2 sp from rnd
10, dc in next 3 sts, FPdtr in corner dtr from rnd 10, sk next st,
dc in next 2 sts, FPdtr in next dtr from rnd 10, sk next st; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 84 dc, 16 FPdtr, 8 dtr, 4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
14 (Color A)
Start
with standing tr in any ch-2 sp from rnd 12, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in ch-2 sp from
rnd 12, BPdc around every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first tr
made. ~ 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps, 108 BPdc
ROUND
15 (Color A)
You
can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch 2) after
slip stitching in the ch-2 sp from previous rnd, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 132 dc,
4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
16 (Color B)
Start
with a standing dc in 12th st from ch-2 sp from previous round.
*dc in next 11 sts, FPdtr around first FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in
next 2 sts, FPdtr around next FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 3
sts, FPdtr around corner dtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 3 sts,
dtr in ch-2 sp from rnd 13, ch 2, dtr in same ch-2 sp from rnd 13, dc
in next 3 sts, FPdtr around corner dtr from round 13, sk next st, dc in next 3 sts, FPdtr around next FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdtr around next FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st; rep from * to end. Join with
ss in first dc made. ~ 108 dc, 24 FPdtr, 8 dtr, 4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
17 (Color A)
Start
with standing tr in any ch-2 sp from rnd 12, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in ch-2 sp from
rnd 15, BPdc around every st until next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first tr
made. ~ 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps, 140 BPdc
ROUND
18 (Color C)
Start
with a standing sc in tr falling immediately after ch-2 sp, * (sc in st, sk next st,
ch 1) 18 times, sc in next st, (tr3tog, ch 2, tr3tog) in ch-2 sp from rnd 15 (work
this behind ch-2 sp of rnd 16); rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc
made. ~ 76 sc, 72 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 tr3tog
ROUND
19 (Color C & Color A)
Start
with a standing sc in a tr3tog falling immediately after ch-2 sp *sc in next st, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) 19 times, switch the yarn to Color A, (puff,
ch2, puff) in the ch-2 sp from rnd 17, switch the yarn back to Color C; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 76 ch-1 sps, 80 sc, sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 mini
puffs
ROUND
20 (Color C & Color B)
Start
with standing sc in first puff, *sc in puff from previous round, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) 20 times, ch 2, switch the yarn to Color B, work one 4dc-PC (height raised to
current working level) in the ch-2 sp from rnd 17 (in the same space where 2
puffs are worked - in between 2 puffs), switch the yarn back to Color C, ch 2*
around. Join with ss in the first sc made. ~ 84 sc, 80 ch1 sps, 4 PC, 8 ch-2 sps
ROUND
21 (Color C)
Start
with standing sc in ch-2 sp after pc, *(sc in the ch-sp, sk next st, ch 1) 21 times, sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, FPdc around PC, ch 2, FPdc around same PC,
ch 1* around. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 88 sc, 92 ch-1 sps, 8 FPdc, 4 ch-2 sps
ROUND
22 (Color A)
Start with standing dc in FPdc from previous rnd, *dc in next st/sp across, (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 196 dc, 4 ch2 sps
ROUND
23 (Color C)
Start
with a standing BPdc around first st after any ch-2 sp, *BPdc around every st across, tr in ch-2 sp from rnd 21 (work this behind ch-2 sp of rnd 22), ch 2, tr
in ch-2 sp from rnd 21; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first BPdc made. ~ 196
bpdc, 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps
Thank
you for choosing my pattern.
And
now it is time for today’s WoW
(Words of Wisdom).
The
above quote is by “Rumi”. If you are following my posts you will know my Love
for Rumi. I like to read Rumi, I like to quote from Rumi. Below I have quoted some lines from
“The Essential Rumi”.
“My
heart is so small
it's
almost invisible.
How
can You place
such
big sorrows in it?
"Look,"
He answered,
"your
eyes are even smaller,
yet
they behold the world.”
Hope
you are enjoying my patterns as well as some bits of reading from here and
there.
Happy
crocheting..!!
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