Pattern release for "Aryaa Doily"

Hello and welcome to my little blog..!

Monsoon lingered more than usual this year, October heat (local phenomenon here – the scorching heat caused by monsoon withdrawal due to which temperature rises and humidity falls) has become like a myth. This year we are hearing words “cyclone”, “red alert”, “orange alert” more than ever! Cyclones are more common in the eastern and south-eastern parts of India but here in western coasts, its unusual...!! But this year is anyways full of unusual things I guess, so no wonder. Enough of my weather reporting...!😀 I have one good news for y’all, today I am publishing my doily pattern “Aryaa”.

Today marks the first day of Navratri, a festival celebrated in India with much enthusiasm (its particularly famous with young generation because of the Garba parties.!). I always try to narrate the festivals in India in details because that’s my heritage and as most of my readers are based out of India, I take every opportunity to describe Indian culture.!

This festival revolves around the legend of the battle between goddess Durga and demon Mahishasura, in which the demon is defeated eventually, signifying the victory of good over evil. Navratri means nine nights, 'Nava' means 'nine,’ and 'Ratri' means 'night.' Goddess Durga is worshipped in 9 forms known as NavDurga. This 9 day long festival is celebrated by wearing different color outfits (one color for each day), my favorite part.! I still remember, earlier (it feels like a different era altogether), I mean before this pandemic when everything was normal (no restrictions on travelling) and local train was our only option, whole railways platform used to turn into that day’s color..! Going to miss it this year.!

In the eastern and northeastern states of India, the festival is celebrated as Durga Puja, the biggest festival of the year there.! In Northern India, Ram Lila, a folk drama where scenes from Lord Rama’s life are played, is performed.

On the final day, called Vijayadashmi or Dussehra, the effigies symbolizing the evil is burnt with fireworks marking evil's destruction. In Maharashtra where I live, people exchange sweets and Apta (Bauhinia racemose) tree leaves, it signifies good wishes and prosperous future, an ancient tradition. Doors are decorated with garlands made up of marigold, mango leaves and mature seed heads of rice (this is also the harvest time for rice here). The environment is so joyous that it feels like the whole cosmic energy has transcended down.! That’s my India, Unity in diversity, so many different ways and traditions to celebrate one festival.

So coming back to the pattern, “Aryaa” which means brave and noble (my brainchild.), is 12’’ doily made in 28 rounds. I have given two optional rounds (value added rounds). I chose this day for release because this day is special, very auspicious, it denotes the tremendous potential power, the feminine creation has within herself (an ordinary woman has within her).

Lastly before I start giving instruction, I want to thank all my lovely testers, Aparna, Yvonne, Sivapriya, Tricia, Marjella, Lotta & Kamila. Special thanks to Aparna, what would I do without you Appu.!

Here goes the pattern, enjoy.!

Aryaa

 

MATERIAL NEEDED:

Size 10 crochet thread

1.75 mm hook

Scissors

Tapestry needle to sew in the ends

Stitch marker

YARDAGE:

350+

FINISHED SIZE:

12’’

PATTERN NOTES:

Join rounds with slip stitches in the first st made unless otherwise noted.

Pattern repeats are marked within round with any of the following: **, (), {}.

Stitch count for each round are listed at the end of the round.

Groups of stitches are marked in parenthesis () or {}.

Please go through the "STITCH GUIDE & ABBREVIATIONS" section before you begin. All stitches in this pattern are listed and/or explained in this section unless they are explained within the round itself.

It is always best to wash your product by hand and block appropriately.

I have done my best to make sure this pattern is accurate. However, if you find any errors or typographical mistake or have any query with regard to the pattern, please drop me an email on hooksbooksnme@gmail.com

In most of the rounds I start by saying, start your round with standing st and the position where the stitch has to be placed; this is just a starting instruction and should not be counted as a st . Moreover, you can start the round with slip st and corresponding chains for a standing st (such as ch3 for dc, ch4 for tr and so on)

Ch1 does not count as a stitch unless explicitly mentioned.

 

STITCH GUIDE / ABBREVIATIONS (U.S. Terminology):

st	stitch	sk	skip
yo	yarn over	ss	slip stitch
sp	space	sc	single crochet
hdc	half double crochet	dc	double crochet
fl	front loop	bl	back loop
fpdc	front post double crochet	fptr	front post treble crochet
fpsc	front post single crochet	fphdc	front post half double crochet
bphdc	back post half double crochet	fltr	front loop treble
dc2tog	double crochet 2 together yo, place hook in st/sp to be worked, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops, 2 loops on hook. Yo, place hook in same st/sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops, 3 loops on hook. Yo and pull through all 3 loops.
dc3tog	double crochet 3 together yo, place hook in st/sp to be worked, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops, 2 loops on hook. (Yo, place hook in same st/sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops) × twice, 4 loops on hook. Yo and pull through all 4 loops.
tr3tog	treble crochet 3 together Yo twice, insert hook into indicated st/sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops twice (2 loops on hook), yo twice, insert hook into same st/sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops twice (3 loops on hook), yo twice, insert hook into same st/sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops twice (4 loops on hook), yo and pull through all 4 loops.
tr2tog	treble crochet 2 together Yo twice, insert hook into indicated st/sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops twice (2 loops on hook), yo twice, insert hook into same st/sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops twice (3 loops on hook), yo and pull through all 3 loops.
4-dc pc	4-dc popcorn Make 4 dc in same st, remove hook from loop and insert from front to back of 1st dc and then into dropped loop and pull through. Ch 1 to close. This closing chain is not counted in any chains you are asked to make after the popcorn
5-dc pc	5-dc popcorn Make 5 dc in same st, remove hook from loop and insert from front to back of 1st dc and then into dropped loop and pull through. Ch 1 to close. This closing chain is not counted in any chains you are asked to make after the popcorn
fpdc4tog cluster	4 front post double crochet cluster yo, place hook around st to be worked, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops, 2 loops on hook. (Yo, place hook in same st/sp, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops) × thrice, 5 loops on hook. Yo and pull through all 5 loops.
fldc4tog cluster	4 front loop double crochet cluster yo, place hook in the fl of the st to be worked, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through two loops, 2 loops on hook. (Yo, place hook in the fl of the same st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops) × thrice, 5 loops on hook. Yo and pull through all 5 loops.
ch3 picot	Ch3 picot ch3, ss in the back loop of the third ch from the hook.

 

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Start with double MR, (hdc, ch1) × 8 times in the MR. Join with ss in the first st made. ~ 8 hdc, 8 ch1 sps

2. We will be working dc2tog in this round, but first leg of the dc2tog is worked in one st and 2^nd leg in the next st, start with the beginning dc2tog (ch2 in the st where you slip stitched + dc in the next st) , ch2, {dc2tog (first dc in the previous st and 2^nd dc in the next st), ch2} × 7 times. Join with ss in the first st made.            ~ 8 dc2og, 8 ch2 sps

3. Ss in the next ch sp, *((ch2, hdc in the same sp, (ch2, hdc in the base of ch2) × twice), ss in the next ch sp)* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made. Fasten off.                   ~ 24 hdc, 24 ch2 sps, 8 ss

4. Working behind the round 3, start with standing sc, (Sc in the dc2tog from round 2, ch3) × 7 times, sc in the dc2tog, ch1, dc in the first sc made (to make last ch3 sp).             ~ 8 sc, 8 ch3 sps

5. Starting with beginning dc3tog (ch2+dc2tog) in the same sp, (ch4, dc3tog in the ch3 sp from previous round) × 7 times, (ch2, dc in the first dc3tog to make last ch4 sp).                  ~ 8 dc3tog, 8 ch4 sps

6. Starting with beginning pc (ch3 + 3 dc), ch2, 4-dc pc in the same sp, fpdc around dc3tog, ch1, *(4-dc pc, ch2, 4-dc pc) in next ch4 sp, ch1, fpdc around dc3tog, ch1* rep from * to * 7 times. Join with ss in the first st made.        ~ 16 4-dc pc, 16 ch1 sps, 8 ch2 sps, 8 fpdc

7. Start with standing fpdc around fpdc from previous round, *fpdc around fpdc, skip next ch1 sp, ch1, ((dc, ch1)× 4 times, dc) in the ch2 sp (ch2 sp between two pc’s), ch1, skip next ch1 sp* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.        ~ 8 fpdc, 48 ch1 sps, 40 dc

8. Ch2 (does not count as st), * fptr around fpdc, ch1, (tr3tog, ch1, tr3tog) in ch sp between first and second dc, fptr around third dc, (tr3tog, ch1, tr3tog) in ch sp between fourth and fifth dc, ch1* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made. ~ 16 fptr, 32 ch1 sps, 32 tr3tog

9. This round is little bit different, we will be working 8 hdc’s (let’s call it leaf) around fptr (from round 8) and fpdc (from round 7) and fpdc (from round 6),*{4 hdc’s around frptr (from round 8) keeping one loop each on the hook, 2 hdc’s around fpdc (from round 7) keeping one loop each on the hook, 2 hdc’s around fpdc (from round 6) keeping one loop each on the hook, (you will have 9 loops on the hook), (YO, pull through 2 loops on the hook) × 8 times}, (sc-hdc-dc-ch2-dc-hdc-sc) in ch1 sp (between 2 tr3tog), fpsc around fptr, (sc-hdc-dc-ch2-dc-hdc-sc) in ch1 sp (between 2 tr3tog)* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made. Fasten off. ~ 8 leaves, 8 fpsc, 32 sc, 32 hdc, 32 dc, 16 ch2 sps

10. Start with standing sc in the ch2 sp, *sc in the ch2 sp, ch7* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.         ~ 16 sc, 16 ch7 sps

11. SS in the next ch7 sp, *(3 sc, ch3, 3 sc ) in the ch7 sp, fphdc around sc* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.           ~ 96 sc, 16 ch3 sps, 16 fphdc

12. Ch1, * fpdc around fphdc, ch2, {(dc2tog, ch1) × twice, dc2tog} in the ch3 sp, ch2* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.        ~ 16 fpdc, 32 ch2 sps, 32 ch1 sps, 48 dc2tog

13. Ch1, *fphdc around fpdc, 3 hdc in ch2 sp, (fphdc around dc2tog, hdc in ch1 sp) × twice, fphdc around dc2tog, 3 hdc in ch2 sp* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.         ~ 128 hdc, 64 fphdc

Note: put the st marker in the fphdc made around fpdc, we will use this st in round 16.

14. Ch1, * bphdc around each st across* Join with ss in the first st made. ~ 192 bphdc

15. Ch1, sc in the bl of the same st, sc in the bl of the next st, fptr around the right of the fpdc from round 12 – the very first fpdc that you made, think this arrangement as a letter “Y” so this fptr is first slant line, we will call it as backward fptr), *sc in the bl of next 7 sts, fptr (forward fptr) around left of the fpdc from round 12, skip the st behind it, sc in the bl of next 3 sts, fptr (backward fptr) around the right of the fpdc from round 12, skip st behind * rep from * to * around, sc in the bl of the next 7 sts, fptr (forward fptr) around the left of the fpdc from round 12, skip the st behind it, sc in the bl of next st. Join with ss in the first st made. Fasten off.          ~ 32 fptr (16 forward fptr & 16 backward fptr), 160 sc

16. Start with standing dc (keeping one loop on the hook) around first fptr (forward fptr from previous round), * fpdc4tog cluster around fptr, sc in the same fptr, ch1, skip next st, fldc4tog cluster in the loops of the next st two rounds below (in the loops of fphdc (from round 13), where we have our st marker), sc in the next st (this is the centre st of 3 sc group), skip next st, ch1, fpdc4tog cluster around next fptr (backward fptr), sc in the same fptr, sc in the bl of the next 7 sts* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.            ~ 32 fpdc4tog clusters, 16 fldc4tog clusters, 32 ch1 sps, 160 sc

 

          

17. Ch1, *(fphdc around fpdc4tog, hdc in the ch1 sp) × twice, fphdc around fpdc4tog, hdc in the next 7 sts* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.         ~ 48 fphdc, 144 hdc

 

18. Ch1, *sc in the bl of each st across* Join with ss in the first st made.    ~ 192 blo sc

 

19. Ch2 (does not count as st), *dc in each st across* Join with ss in the first st made.            ~ 192 dc

 

20. Ch1, * sc in the next st (for the first st, this will be same st where you slip stitched), fltr in the st which is 1 st ahead and 2 rounds below – this will give you a slant fltr, skip next st* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.        ~ 96 fltr, 96 sc

 

21. Ch1, * fpdc4tog around fptr, sc in the fptr, ch2, skip sc* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.         ~ 96 fpdc4tog, 96 sc, 96 ch2 sps

 

22. SS in the ch2 sp, beginning dc (or ch2), ch4, skip next ch2 sp, * dc in the next ch2 sp, ch4, skip next ch2 sp* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.     ~ 48 dc, 48 ch4 sps

 

23. SS over next 2 chains (of ch4 sp), sc in the same ch4 sp, *dc in the skipped ch2 sp from previous round, ch3, 2 dc in the 2^nd ch (of ch4), ch2, 2 dc in the 3^rd ch (of ch4), ch3, sc in the next ch4 sp* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first sc made (for last repeat of rounds, you will not work sc as we have already done it the beginning of round.     ~ 120 dc, 24 ch2 sps, 48 ch3 sps, 24 sc

 

24. Ch2 (does not count as st), *fpdc around dc, ch6, 5-dc pc in the ch2 sp, ch6* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.              ~ 24 fpdc, 48 ch6 sps, 24 5-dc pc

 

25. Ch2 (does not count as st), *fpdc around fpdc, ch1, dc through the ch sps from previous 2 rounds (ch6 sp of round 24 and ch3 sp of round 23), ch1, (dc, ch1, dc) in the ch6 sp, ch2, skip pc, (dc, ch1, dc) in the next ch6 sp, ch1, dc through the ch sps from previous 2 rounds (ch6 sp of round 24 and ch3 sp of round 23), ch1* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.             ~ 24 fpdc, 144 ch1 sps, 144 dc, 24 ch2 sps

26. We will be working only in the ch sps skipping 1^st ch1 sp, Ch1, *fpsc around fpdc, ch1, skip first ch1 sp, (dc3tog in the next ch1 sp, ch1) × twice, (dc3tog, ch2, dc3tog) in ch2 sp, (ch1, dc3tog in the next ch1 sp) × twice, ch1, skip next ch1 sp* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.      ~ 24 fpsc, 144 ch1 sps, 24 ch2 sps, 144 dc3tog

 

27. Ch1, * sc in the fpsc, (hdc in the ch1 sp, fphdc around dc3tog) × 3 times, dc-ch2-dc in the ch2 sp, (fphdc around dc3tog, hdc in the ch1 sp) × 3 times* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                    ~ 24 sc, 24 ch2 sp, 48 dc, 144 hdc, 144 fphdc

 

28. Ch1, * fpdc around fpsc (from round 26), bpsc around next 7 sts, (sc, ch3 picot, sc) in the ch2 sp, bpsc around next 7 sts* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made. Fasten off.                     ~ 24 ch3 picot, 48 sc, 24 fpdc, 336 bpsc

 

This round is optional and will be worked on wrong side of your project.

29. Turn your work, we will be working in the loops made by dc3tog (from round 26 – around which we did our fphdc).

Join with ss in the first dc3tog (immediately after fpsc), ch1, *sc in the dc3tog, ch4, (skip everything in between and hop on to next dc3tog), sc in the next dc3tog, ch4, sc in the next dc3tog, ch3, tr2tog in the ch2 sp of round 26, ch3, sc in the next dc3tog (immediately after ch2 sp), ch4, sc in the dc3og, ch4, sc in the next dc3tog, ch2, (skip all the sts in between)* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first sc made. Fasten off.       ~ 24 ch2 sps, 24 tr2tog, 48 ch3 sps, 96 ch4 sps, 144 sc

 

Note: This is also optional, I have added one bobble in the centre, just to have extra little something. So to make one, make a slip knot on the hook (leaving a long tail), ch3, dc10tog in the third ch from the hook (the very first ch that you made), ch1 to close, ss in the same third ch, cut off the yarn leaving a long tail. Sew this bobble in the centre of your doily (as can be seen in the following picture).

 

That is it. We’re done..!

Please remember to follow me on my Instagram page @stardust0901 if you want to support me and if you have any questions, I will be glad to help you. You can tag me on your finished mandalas (#aryaadoily) or send me a picture.

More designs are available on Ravelry @ https://www.ravelry.com/designers/hooksbooksnme-designs 

Follow my page HooksBooksNMe Designs on Facebook, you may also join my Facebook group HooksBooksNMe Designs Support Group 

Copyright 2020 HooksBooksNMe Designs – All rights reserved 

Please do not redistribute this pattern in whole or in partial, with or without change. You may sell items made using this pattern but please credit me as designer. Thank you for understanding.

 

And now it is the time for today’s WoW (Words of Wisdom), it is taken from Inheritance cycle by Christopher Paolini. I was impressed by the character “Arya”, a noble elf princess – beautiful, determined, and powerful. Namesake for this doily.

“It's impossible to go through life unscathed. Nor should you want to. By the hurts we accumulate, we measure both our follies and our accomplishments.”

That’s all for today. Hope you enjoy making this beauty.

Be safe and stay hooked to your passion.

Love,

Jessica❤️

 

 

"Kaas Plateau Square"

There was a time in my life when I wanted to get rid of the local trains (just google western railway Mumbai ..!!). What a pain it is to travel, in fact getting inside the train is the biggest challenge..! But now that the local train services are suspended since March and expected to remain suspended till 30^th of September, I must take roadways to reach office (I resumed office almost after 4 months of WFH). It is now, I understood the importance of local trains – how badly I miss my travelling, standing on the platform waiting for train to arrive ( by the way, they are hardly on time), standing ahead of everyone on the platform and jumping inside even before the train halts at the platform, chatting with my friends ( my morning train is fixed so I have a group of friends - of different ages, different ethnicities, different cultures but when we are in the train, we are one! ). I miss them all, that morning time was my energy booster for the whole day. 

 

‌We tend to take everything for granted when it is easily available, we only understand their importance when they are snatched away from us. This lockdown has taught me (or rather all of us) what is truly valuable in life and what is façade. It has changed our way to look at life, made us appreciate what truly matters: friends and family...! Lockdown let us rediscover ourselves and gave us time to rekindle our passions and interests which were lost in time (or due to lack of time).

 

‌A teeny tiny virus brought our lives to standstill and showed us how fragile the life can be...! It made us sit still and appreciate what we have rather than what we do not have. So, I have started taking one moment at a time...!! Last week we celebrated my son’s second birthday, so we are having our little good time at home. Also, during this time of the year ,we celebrate Ganpati festival in India (especially in the state of Maharashtra). It is one of the most awaited season of the year. Ganesh clay idols are installed privately at homes or in pubic pandals on large scale amid big processions but this year due to pandemic there is no noise in the pandals, no processions, but can still hear the hums of aartis (prayer songs/hymns) at night time but everything is happening on a very limited scale, in much simpler manner.

 

We normally visit my husband’s native place (trip I which, always look forward to..!) but this year we also dropped the plan of going there. Instead I made “Ukadiche Modak (steamed rice flour dumpling with coconut and jaggery stuffing)” and “Besan Laddoo (sweet made using Ghee roasted gram flour)” at home. But I missed the fun at the village.!

 

As I mentioned earlier that I am travelling by road to reach my workplace, I get my “Me Time” (almost 06 hours every alternate day!) that I use to read (currently reading “Norwegian Wood” by Murakami), crochet (presenting the pattern here😊)and either listening to music or watching documentaries (recently watched “Our Planet” - a documentary series by Netflix). I was so upset and distraught over the way we are displacing the habitat of other species, that I could not hold my tears at times.!

 

As David Attenborough rightly said that be responsible careful citizens of this planet which is our only home, and for the creatures that live in it..!

 

Coming back to the pattern, presenting “Kaas Plateau” square – I have always like to make floral centric square so this one also has flower in the center, also I was much inspired by the series so I decided to make some designs ( as and when I get time ) that will connect to India’s natural reserves.

 

I will speak less about the pattern, it is simple square aimed at beginners, uses basic crochet stitches!! But would like to share something about “Kass”, Kaas best known as Maharashtra’s valley of flower, is 280 Km drive away from Mumbai. It bears UNESCO World Heritage Site tag for its stunning biodiversity. Roughly during September and some days of October, the plateau blooms with a carpet of tiny, colorful wildflowers and with it come, various varieties of Butterflies..!

 

Kass Plateau Square

 

MATERIAL NEEDED:

Yarn of your choice

Matching hook

scissors

tapestry needle for weaving in your ends

YARDAGE:

350+ yards

 

FINISHED SIZE:

10 inches when made in fingering weight yarn and 3.5mm hook

 

PATTREN NOTES:

Join rounds with slip stitches in the first st made unless otherwise noted.

Pattern repeats are marked within round with any of the following: **, (), {}.

Stitch count for each round are listed at the end of the round.

Groups of stitches are marked in parenthesis () or {}.

Please go through the "STITCH GUIDE & ABBREVIATIONS" section before you begin. All stitches in this pattern are listed and/or explained in this section unless they are explained within the round itself.

It is always best to wash your product by hand and block appropriately.

I have done my best to make sure this pattern is accurate. However, if you find any errors or typographical mistake or have any query with regard to the pattern, please drop me an email on hooksbooksnme@gmail.com

In most of the rounds I start by saying, start your round with standing st and the position where the stitch has to be placed; this is just a starting instruction and should not be counted as a st . Moreover, you can start the round with slip st and corresponding chains for a standing st (such as ch3 for dc, ch4 for tr and so on)

Ch1 does not count as a stitch unless explicitly mentioned.

Single crochets in the back loop

Double crochets in the front loop

 

 STITCH GUIDE / ABBREVIATIONS (U.S. Terminology):

 

st	Stitch	sk	skip
yo	Yarn Over	hdc	Half Double Crochet
ss	Slip stitch	Ch1	Chain 1 sp
sc	Single Crochet	htr	Half Treble Crochet
dc	Double Crochet	bpsc	Back Post Single Crochet
fl	Front loop	bl	Back loop
fpdc	Front post double crochet	fphtr	Front post half treble crochet
fpsc	Front post single crochet	rsc	Reverse Single Crochet
dtr	Double Treble Crochet YO thrice, insert hook around the st indicated, YO and pull up a loop (5 loops on the hook), (YO and draw through 2 loops) × 4 times

COLOR GUIDE

Rust Orange

Turmeric Yellow

Cobalt Blue

Green

 

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS:

Start with a double magic ring, if you are not comfortable with using MR, ch4 to form a ring.

 

ROUND 1 in Mustard Yellow

(Hdc, ch2) 6 times in the MR. Join with ss in the first st made.              ~ (6 hdc, 6 ch2 sps)

ROUND 2 in Mustard Yellow

Continue with the same color, ss in the ch2 sp, ch1, * (sc, ch1, 5 hdc ) in the ch2 sp, fpsc around hdc*  rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first sc made. Fasten off.               ~ (6 sc, 6 ch1 sps, 30 hdc, 6 fpsc)

ROUND 3 in Rust Orange

Start with standing sc in the hdc (from round 1 – working behind the project), * sc in the hdc, ch4* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.        ~ (6 sc, 6 ch4 sps)

You can turn your work to the wrong side and work sc’s in the hdc.

ROUND 4 in Rust Orange

Continue with the same color, ss in the ch4 sp, ch1, *(sc, ch2, 7 dc) in the ch4 sp, fpsc around sc * rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first sc made. Fasten off.    ~ (6 sc, 6 ch2 sps, 42 dc, 6 fpsc)

ROUND 5 in Rust Orange

Start with standing sc in the sc (from round 3 – working behind the project), * sc in the sc, ch6* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.        ~ (6 sc, 6 ch6 sps)

ROUND 6 in Rust Orange

Continue with the same color, ss in the ch4 sp, ch1, *(sc, ch2, 9 htr) in the ch4 sp, fpsc around sc * rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first sc made. Fasten off.     ~ (6 sc, 6 ch2 sps, 54 htr, 6 fpsc)

ROUND 7 in Green

Start with standing sc in the sc (from round 5 – working behind the project), * sc in the sc, ch6* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made. Fasten off.   ~ (6 sc, 6 ch6 sps)

ROUND 8 in Green

Start with standing sc in any ch6 sp, * (5 sc, 2 hdc, 2 dc, htr) ch6 sp, ch2, (htr, 2 dc, 2 hdc, 5 sc) in next ch6 sp, (2 hdc, 2 dc, htr, ch2, htr, 2 dc, 2 hdc) in next ch6 sp* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first sc made. Fasten off.        ~ (20 sc, 16 hdc, 16 dc, 8 htr, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 9 in Green

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, sc in next 15 sts* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made. Fasten off.                     ~ (68 sc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 10 in Midnight Blue

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc in the next 5 sts, ch1, skip next st, sc in the next 5 sts, ch1, sc in the next 5 sts* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made..        ~ (68 sc, 8 ch1 sps, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 11 in Green

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc in the next 6 sts, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 5 sts, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 6 sts* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                  ~ (76 sc, 8 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 12 in Midnight Blue

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc, dc in the next 6 sts one round below, sc in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 6 sts one round below, sc in the next st* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.        ~ (32 sc, 60 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 13 in Green

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc in the next 8 sts, dc in the next 2 sts one round below, sc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next 2 sts one round below, sc in the next 8 sts* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                      ~ (84 sc, 16 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 14 in Midnight Blue

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc, dc in the next 8 sts one round below, sc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next 8 sts one round below, sc in the next st* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                       ~ (40 sc, 68 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 15 in Green

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc in the next 10 sts, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next st, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next 10 sts* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                    ~ (92 sc, 24 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 16 in Midnight Blue

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc, dc in the next 2 sts one round below, sc in the next st, dc in the next 5 sts one round below, sc in the next st, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 7 sts, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next st, dc in the next 5 sts one round below, sc in the next st, dc in the next 2 sts one round below, sc in the next st* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                   ~ (60 sc, 64 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 17 in Green

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc in the next 4 sts, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 5 st, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next st, dc in the next 7 sts one round below, sc inthe next st, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 5 sts, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 4 sts * rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                    ~ (88 sc, 44 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 18 in Midnight Blue

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc, dc in the next 4 sts one round below, sc in the next 2 st, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next 2 st, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 7 sts, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 4 sts one round below, sc in the next st* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                        ~ (76 sc, 64 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 19 in Green

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc in the next 6 sts, dc in the next 2 sts one round below, sc in the next 3 st, dc in the next 2 sts one round below, sc in the next 2 sts, dc in the next 5 sts one round below, sc inthe next 2 sts, dc in the next 2 sts one round below, sc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next 2 sts one round below, sc in the next 6 sts * rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                    ~ (96 sc, 52 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 20 in Midnight Blue

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc, dc in the next 6 sts one round below, sc in the next 3 st, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 3 st, dc in the next 2 sts one round below, sc in the next 5 sts, dc in the next 2 sts one round below, sc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next 6 sts one round below, sc in the next st* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                        ~ (84 sc, 72 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 21 in Green

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc in the next 8 sts, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next st, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc inthe next 3 sts, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next st, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next 8 sts * rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                ~ (104 sc, 60 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 22 in Midnight Blue

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc, dc in the next 8 sts one round below, sc in the next 7 sts, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next 3 sts, dc in the next 3 sts one round below, sc in the next 7 sts, dc in the next 8 sts one round below, sc in the next st* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                ~ (84 sc, 88 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 23 in Green

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc in the next 10 sts, dc in the next 7 sts one round below, sc in the next 4 sts, dc in the next st one round below, sc in the next 4 sts, dc in the next 7 sts one round below, sc in the next 10 sts * rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.             ~ (120 sc, 60 dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 24 in Midnight Blue

Start with standing htr in the corner ch2 sp of round , *(2 htr, ch2, 2 htr) in the ch2 sp of round , dc in the next 10 sts one round below, sc in the next 7 sts, dc in the next 4 sts one round below, sc in the next st, dc in the next 4 sts one round below, sc in the next 7 sts, dc in the next 10 sts one round below* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                    ~ (60 sc, 112 dc, 16 htr, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 25 in Midnight Blue

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc in each st across * rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                ~ (196 sc,  dc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 26 in Mustard Yellow

Start with ss in the front loop of first st before any ch2 sp, * reverse sc in the fl of each st acorss, ch3* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                     ~ (196 reverse sc, 4 ch3 sps)

ROUND 27 in Rust Orange

Start with ss in first st afte any corner ch2 sp, * ( (YO × 4) puff in the st, ch1, skip next st ) × 24 times, (YO × 4) puff in the next st, (dc, ch2, dc) in the corner ch2 sp* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.             ~ (100 puffs, 96 ch1 sps, 8 dc, 4 ch2 sp)

ROUND 28 in Rust Orange

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, fpsc around dc, (fpsc around puff, sc in the ch1 sp) × 24 times, fpsc around puff, fpsc around dc * rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.             ~ (108 fpsc, 104 sc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 29 in Rust Orange

Start with standing sc in the corner ch2 sp, *(Sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, sc in each st across * rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                ~ (220 sc, 4 ch2 sps)

ROUND 30 in Mustard Yellow

Start with ss in the front loop of first st before any ch2 sp of round 28 , * reverse sc in the fl of each st acorss, ch1, dtr in the the ch3 sp of round 26, ch1* rep from * to * around. Join with ss in the first st made.                    ~ (212 reverse sc, 4 dtr, 8 ch1 sps)

 

Yay..!! And here we are done with our square.

Please remember to follow me on my Instagram page @stardust0901 if you want to support me and if you have any questions, I will be glad to help you. You can tag me on your finished (#kaasplateausquare) or send me a picture. I am extremely excited to see your color selection.

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Copyright 2020 HooksBooksNMe Designs – All rights reserved

 

Please do not redistribute this pattern in whole or in partial, with or without change. You may sell items made using this pattern but please credit me as designer. Thank you for understanding.

And now time for some food for thought, WoW ( Words of Wisdom).

As I have mentioned in the beginning of my post that I am currently reading “Norwegian Wood”, it is a novel by Japanese author Haruki Murakami. It is genuine, emotionally engaging and describes highs of adolescence as well as lows. I can read Murakami’s work again and again, it always feels afresh, you will always find something new to admire that you missed during your last reading. The characters, the story line of his books is much deeper, more mysterious, more vulnerable than we could comprehend in a single read or so do I feel..!

 

 

Times are hard but never lose hope. Take good care of yourself, until we meet here again.

Love,

Jessica