"Sagitta" ~~ Second square in the series "In Love With Granny"

Hello Friends, welcome again. Thank you for your overwhelming response to "Chloris".

Your kind response is what keeps me going. Being a novice in this field (both crochet pattern designing & blog writing), I did not expect such a kind and positive response (1200+ page views), so thank you again..!!

The second pattern is named after "Sagitta" constellation which lies in the northern sky. Sagitta literally means "Arrow" in Latin.

Sagitta is one of the Greek constellations, belonging to the Hercules family of constellations. It was first catalogued by the Greek astronomer Ptolemy in the 2nd century. It represents Heracles’ arrow in Greek mythology.

More information on Sagitta constellation can be found HERE.

Coming back to our second square in the series "In Love With Granny" - "Sagitta", Sagitta is 23 rounds, 10" crochet square.

Material Required:

Your favorite yarn and a matching hook, I used 3 mm hook with fingering weight yarn.

Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

Scissors

Level:

Enthusiastic beginner

Finished size:

10" with fingering weight yarn and 3 mm hook

Abbreviation and stitch guide (US terms):

st (stitch) sts (stitches)

ch (chain)

sts (slip stitch)

yo (yarn over)

sp (space) sps (spaces)

sc (single crochet)

dc (double crochet)

hdc (half double crochet)

htr (half treble crochet)

BPdc (back post double crochet)

FPtr (front post treble) – yo × 2 times, insert hook around the indicated st, (yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 3 times

FPdtr (front post double treble) – yo × 3 times, insert hook around the indicated st, (yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 4 times

FPtrtr (front post triple treble) – yo × 4 times, insert hook around the indicated st, (yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) × 5 times

puff St – yo × 3

Popcorn st – (4dc –PC) - Make 4 DC in same st, remove hook from lp and insert from front to back of 1st DC and then into dropped lp and pull through. Ch 1 to close. This closing chain is not counted in any chains you are asked to make after the popcorn.

Colorway:

Color A  -  Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 286 (66))

Color B  -  Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 283 (68))

Color C  -  Vardhaman Baby Soft (Shade No. 69)

Pattern Notes:

Join rounds with slip stitches in the first st made unless otherwise noted.

Pattern repeats are marked within round with any of the following: **, (), {}.

Stitch count for each round are listed at the end of the round.

Groups of stitches are marked in parenthesis () or {}.

Please go through the "STITCH GUIDE & ABBREVIATIONS" section before you begin. All stitches in this pattern are listed and/or explained in this section unless they are explained within the round itself.

I have done my best to make sure this pattern is accurate. However, if you find any errors or typographical mistake or have any query with regard to the pattern, please drop me an email on hooksbooksnme@gmail.com

In most of the rounds I start by saying, start your round with standing st and the position where the stitch has to be placed; this is just a starting instruction and should not be counted as a st . Moreover, you can start the round with slip st and corresponding chains for a standing st (such as ch3 for dc, ch4 for tr and so on)

Please block your work after finishing and weaving in all the ends.

Instructions:

Start with double magic ring. If you are not comfortable working with MR then you may chain 6 and ss in the first ch to form a loop.

ROUND 1 (Color A) 

Work 8 sc in the MR. Join with ss in first sc ~ 8 sc

ROUND 2 (Color A)

Ch 1, *sc, sc in same st, sc in the next st, ch 2; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 12 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 3 (Color A)

You can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch2), *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in the first dc made. ~ 20 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 4 (Color B)

Start with a standing sc in any ch-2 sp, *(sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 28 sc, 4 ch-2 sps

Note: Mark ch-2 sps of this rnd, they will be used in rnd 7.

ROUND 5 (Color A)

Work this round in bl only.

Start with standing dc in any ch-2 sp from rnd 3, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp from rnd 3, dc in next 7 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 36 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 6 (Color A)

Work this round in bl only.

Start with standing dc in any ch-2 sp from rnd 3, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 9 sts; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 44 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 7 (Color B)

Work this round through both the loops.

Start with standing dc in any ch-2 sp, (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in ch-2 sp, FPtrtr in marked ch-2 sp from rnd 4, sk next st, hdc in next 9 sts, FPtrtr in marked ch-2 sp from rnd 4, sk next st; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 44 hdc, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 FPtrtr

ROUND 8 (Color A)

Start with standing dc in any ch2 sp from round 6, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp from rnd 6, BPdc around every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 60 BPdc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 9 (Color A)

You can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch2) after slip stitching in any ch-2 sp from previous round, *(dc, ch 2, dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 68 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 10 (Color B)

Start with standing hdc in any st falling immediately after ch-2 sp, * hdc in next 2 sts, sk next st, FPdtr around FPtrtr from rnd 7, hdc in next 11 sts, sk next st, FPdtr around FPtrtr from rnd 7, hdc in next 2 sts, dtr in ch-2 sp from rnd 7, ch 2, dtr in same ch-2 sp from rnd 7; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first hdc made. ~ 60 hdc, 8 dtr, 8 FPdtr, 4 ch-2 sp

ROUND 11 (Color A)

Start with standing tr in any ch-2 sp from round 9, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in ch-2 sp from rnd 9, BPdc around every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first tr made. ~ 76 dc, 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 12 (Color A)

You can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch2) after slip stitching in ch-2 sp, * (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made.  ~ 100 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 13 (Color B)

Start with standing dc in 8th st after any ch-2 sp from previous round. *dc in next 11 sts, FPdtr around first dtr from rnd 10, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdtr around corner dtr from rnd 10, sk next st, dc in  next 3 sts, dtr in ch-2 sp from rnd 10, ch 2, dtr in same ch-2 sp from rnd 10, dc in next 3 sts, FPdtr in corner dtr from rnd 10, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdtr in next dtr from rnd 10, sk next st; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made.    ~ 84 dc, 16 FPdtr, 8 dtr, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 14 (Color A)

Start with standing tr in any ch-2 sp from rnd 12, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in ch-2 sp from rnd 12, BPdc around every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first tr made.  ~ 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps, 108 BPdc

ROUND 15 (Color A)

You can either start this round with a standing dc or beginning dc (i.e. ch 2) after slip stitching in the ch-2 sp from previous rnd, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in every st till next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 132 dc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 16 (Color B)

Start with a standing dc in 12th st from ch-2 sp from previous round. *dc in next 11 sts, FPdtr around first FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdtr around next FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 3 sts, FPdtr around corner dtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 3 sts, dtr in ch-2 sp from rnd 13, ch 2, dtr in same ch-2 sp from rnd 13, dc in next 3 sts, FPdtr around corner dtr from round 13, sk next st, dc in next 3 sts, FPdtr around next FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st, dc in next 2 sts, FPdtr around next FPdtr from rnd 13, sk next st; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made. ~ 108 dc, 24 FPdtr, 8 dtr, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 17 (Color A)

Start with standing tr in any ch-2 sp from rnd 12, *(tr, ch 2, tr) in ch-2 sp from rnd 15, BPdc around every st until next ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first tr made. ~ 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps, 140 BPdc

ROUND 18 (Color C)

Start with a standing sc in tr falling immediately after ch-2 sp, * (sc in st, sk next st, ch 1) 18 times, sc in next st, (tr3tog, ch 2, tr3tog) in ch-2 sp from rnd 15 (work this behind ch-2 sp of rnd 16); rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 76 sc, 72 ch-1 sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 tr3tog

ROUND 19 (Color C & Color A)

Start with a standing sc in a tr3tog falling immediately after ch-2 sp *sc in next st, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) 19 times, switch the yarn to Color A, (puff, ch2, puff) in the ch-2 sp from rnd 17, switch the yarn back to Color C; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 76 ch-1 sps, 80 sc, sps, 4 ch-2 sps, 8 mini puffs

ROUND 20 (Color C & Color B)

Start with standing sc in first puff, *sc in puff from previous round, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next ch-1 sp) 20 times, ch 2, switch the yarn to Color B, work one 4dc-PC (height raised to current working level) in the ch-2 sp from rnd 17 (in the same space where 2 puffs are worked - in between 2 puffs), switch the yarn back to Color C, ch 2* around. Join with ss in the first sc made. ~ 84 sc, 80 ch1 sps, 4 PC, 8 ch-2 sps

ROUND 21 (Color C)

Start with standing sc in ch-2 sp after pc, *(sc in the ch-sp, sk next st, ch 1) 21 times, sc in next ch-sp, ch 1, FPdc around PC, ch 2, FPdc around same PC, ch 1* around. Join with ss in first sc made. ~ 88 sc, 92 ch-1 sps, 8 FPdc, 4 ch-2 sps

ROUND 22 (Color A)

Start with standing dc in FPdc from previous rnd, *dc in next st/sp across, (2 dc, ch2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first dc made.   ~ 196 dc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 23 (Color C)

Start with a standing BPdc around first st after any ch-2 sp, *BPdc around every st across, tr in ch-2 sp from rnd 21 (work this behind ch-2 sp of rnd 22), ch 2, tr in ch-2 sp from rnd 21; rep from * to end. Join with ss in first BPdc made. ~ 196 bpdc, 8 tr, 4 ch-2 sps

And your second square in the series of 9 squares is done..!!

Thank you for choosing my pattern.

And now it is time for today’s WoW (Words of Wisdom).

The above quote is by “Rumi”. If you are following my posts you will know my Love for Rumi. I like to read Rumi, I like to quote from Rumi. Below I have quoted some lines from “The Essential Rumi”.

“My heart is so small

it's almost invisible.

How can You place

such big sorrows in it?

"Look," He answered,

"your eyes are even smaller,

yet they behold the world.”

Hope you are enjoying my patterns as well as some bits of reading from here and there.

Happy crocheting..!!

                                

                                                           

"Chloris" - a first square in the series "In Love with Granny"

Hello Yarnians, Hi after a very long break. ..!!

So many things are happening in my patch of world. Less active in Crochetland these days after a job change, an illness and a bad weather. Things are getting better now though. One project is already a WIP which I am planning to release by end of this month, meanwhile I will publish a crochet square every 15 days (or so I hope) - a series of 9 squares focusing on the humble granny square pattern.

The first square in this series is “Chloris” - named after Greek goddess of Flower, a simple granny square modified with a bunch of blooms here and there.. hehe. And panels worked in to and fro style in simple hdc and linen st worked in rounds to act as border. Find below the coloring sheet (layout) of the project.

Material Required:

Your favorite yarn and a matching hook, I used 3 mm hook with fingering weight yarn

Tapestry needle to weave in the ends

Scissors

Level:

Enthusiastic beginner

Finished size:

10" with fingering weight yarn and 3 mm hook

Abbreviation and stitch guide (US terms):

st (stitch) sts (stitches)

ch (chain)

sts (slip stitch)

yo (yarn over)

sp (space) sps (spaces)

sc (single crochet)

dc (double crochet)

hdc (half double crochet)

puff St – yo × 3

Popcorn st – (4dc –pc)

5 tr – pc (5 trebles popcorn st ) – work 5 trebles in the indicated st/sp, drop the loop, insert hook in the first st (front to back), pull the dropped loop through first st, ch1 to close.

Pattern Notes:

Join rounds with slip stitches in the first st made unless otherwise noted.

Pattern repeats are marked within round with any of the following: **, (), {}.

Stitch count for each round are listed at the end of the round.

Groups of stitches are marked in parenthesis () or {}.

Please go through the "STITCH GUIDE & ABBREVIATIONS" section before you begin. All stitches in this pattern are listed and/or explained in this section unless they are explained within the round itself.

I have done my best to make sure this pattern is accurate. However, if you find any errors or typographical mistake or have any query with regard to the pattern, please drop me an email on hooksbooksnme@gmail.com

In most of the rounds I start by saying, start your round with standing st and the position where the stitch has to be placed; this is just a starting instruction and should not be counted as a st . Moreover, you can start the round with slip st and corresponding chains for a standing st (such as ch3 for dc, ch4 for tr and so on)

Instructions:

Start with double magic ring. If you are not comfortable working with MR then you may chain 6 and ss in the first ch to form a loop.

ROUND 1 (Color A) 

*(3 dc's in the MR, ch2) × 4 times, around. Join with ss in the first dc made. ~        12 dc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 2 (Color A) 

SS in the next 2 st, ss in the corner ch2 sp, * (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in the corner ch2 sp, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first dc made.  ~ 24 dc, 4 ch2 sps, 4 ch1 sps

ROUND 3 (Color A & Color B)       

SS in the next 2 st, ss in the corner ch2 sp, * (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in the corner ch2 sp, ch1, switch to color B and work one pc in the ch1 sp, switch to color A, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first dc made.       ~ 24 dc, 4 ch2 sps, 8 ch1 sps, 4 pc

ROUND 4 (Color A & Color B)       

SS in the next 2 st, ss in the corner ch2 sp, * (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in the corner ch2 sp, ch1, switch to color B and work one pc in the ch1 sp, ch1, workd one more pc in next ch1 sp, switch to color A, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first dc made.         ~ 24 dc, 4 ch2 sps, 12 ch1 sps, 8 pc

ROUND 5 (Color A)

SS in the next 2 st, ss in the corner ch2 sp, * (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in the corner ch2 sp, ch1, (3 dc in the ch1 sp, ch1) × 3 times * around. Join with ss in the first dc made.    ~ 60 dc, 4 ch2 sps, 16 ch1 sps

ROUND 6 (Color A & B)      

SS in the next 2 st, ss in the corner ch2 sp, * (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in the corner ch2 sp, ch1, switch to color B and work one pc in the ch1 sp, ch1, switch to clor A, ( 3 dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1) × 2 times, Switch to color B,  work one more pc in next ch1 sp, switch to color A, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first dc made.   ~ 48 dc, 4 ch2 sps, 20 ch1 sps, 8 pc

ROUND 7 (Color A & B)      

SS in the next 2 st, ss in the corner ch2 sp, * (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in the corner ch2 sp, ch1, switch to color B and (work one pc in the ch1 sp, ch1) × 2 times, switch to clor A, 3 dc in the next ch1 sp, ch1, Switch to color B,  work one pc in next ch1 sp, ch1, work one more pc in the next ch1 sp, switch to color A, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first dc made. ~ 36 dc, 4 ch2 sps, 24 ch1 sps, 16 pc

ROUND 8 (Color A) 

SS in the next 2 st, ss in the corner ch2 sp, * (3 dc, ch2, 3 dc) in the corner ch2 sp, ch1, (3 dc in the ch1 sp, ch1) × 6 times * around. Join with ss in the first dc made.    ~ 96 dc, 4 ch2 sps, 28 ch1 sps

ROUND 9 (Color C) 

Start in any ch2 sp with standing hdc, hdc in ch2 sp, (hdc in next 3 sts, hdc in ch1 sp) × 7 times, hdc in next 3 sts, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in next ch2 sp, (hdc in next 3 sts, hdc in ch1 sp) × 7 times, hdc in next 3 sts, hdc in next ch2 sp. Turn your work.          ~ 66 hdc, 1 ch2 sp

ROUND 10 (Color C)           

This round will be worked in the front two loops (If you hold you work to right sides, these 2 loops will be back loop & third loop) - refer photo tutorial.

Wrong side of the work facing you, ch2, hdc in the same st, hdc in every st across, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp, hdc in the every st across. Turn your work.              ~ 68 hdc. 1 ch2 sp

ROUND 11 (Color C)           

Work this round in bl only.

Right side of the worl facing you, ch2, hdc in the same st, hdc in every st across, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp, hdc in the every st across. Yo, pull the end through loop. This will make one small ch st which we will use in the next round while making corner i.e. (sc, ch1, sc) will be worked in that ch st.    ~ 70 hdc, 1 ch2 sp

ROUND 12 (Color B)           

Start with standing sc in the ch2 sp made in the previous round. *(sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, (ch1, skip next st, sc in the next st ) × 17 times, ch1, sk next st* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.        ~ 76 sc, 4 ch2 sp, 72 ch1 sp

Note: You have to work second corner in the ch st made in the previous round - refer photo tutorial. Also while working on the un-worked side ( where to & fro panel is not worked) count stitches and work accordingly (1 sc in ch1 sp, ch1, then next sc in the center dc in the 3-dc group, ch1 and around, last 2 sc-ch1 will be worked in dc/ch2 of ribbed panels - hope I am making sense...!!)

ROUND 13 (Color B)           

Slip st in the next ch1 sp, ch1 * (sc in the ch1 sp, ch1, skip next st) × 18 times, (sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, ch1* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.       ~ 80 sc, 76 ch1 sp, 4 ch2 sp

ROUND 14 (Color C)

Start in any ch2 sp with standing hdc, hdc in ch2 sp, (hdc in next  st, hdc in ch1 sp) × 19 times, hdc in next st, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in next ch2 sp, (hdc in next  st, hdc in ch1 sp) × 19 times, hdc in next st, hdc in next ch2 sp. Turn your work.               ~ 82 hdc, 1 ch2 sp

ROUND 15 (Color C)

This round will be worked in the front two loops like you worked in Round 10 with wrong side of the work facing you, ch2, hdc in the same st, hdc in next 40 sts, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp, hdc in next 41 sts. Turn your work.                        ~ 84 hdc, 1 ch2 sp

ROUND 16 (Color C)

Work this round in bl only.

Right side of the worl facing you, ch2, hdc in the same st, hdc in every st across, (hdc, ch2, hdc) in ch2 sp, hdc in the every st across. Yo, pull the end through loop. This will make one small ch st which we will use in the next round while making corner i.e. (sc, ch1, sc) will be worked in that ch st.                ~ 86 hdc. 1 ch2 sp

ROUND 17 (Color B)
Start with standing sc in the ch2 sp made in the previous round. *(sc, ch2, sc) in the ch2 sp, (ch1, skip next st, sc in the next st ) × 21 times, ch1, sk next st* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.              ~ 92 sc, 88 ch1 sps, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 18 (Color B)

Slip st in the next ch2 sp, ch1 *(sc, ch2, sc) in ch2 sp, ch1, (sc in the ch1 sp, ch1, skip next st) × 22 times* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.                     ~ 96 sc, 92 ch1 sps, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 19 (Color A)

Start with standing sc in any ch2 sp, *(2 hdc, ch2, 2 hdc) in ch2 sp, hdc in next 2 sts, (fpdc in the front loop of the st 2 round below, skip next st, hdc in the next st) × 20 times, fpdc in the front loop of the st 2 rounds below, skip next st, hdc in the next 2 sts* around. Join with SS in the first hdc made.                        ~ 112 hdc, 84 fpdc, 4 ch2 sps

ROUND 20 (Color C)

Start with standing bpdc in any first fpdc from previous round, * bpdc in each st across, ch1, 5tr-pc in the ch2 sp from 2 rounds below (Round 18), ch1* around. Join with ss in the first bpdc made.                        ~ 196 bpdc, 8 ch1 sps, 4 5tr-pc

ROUND 21 (Color B)

Start with standing sc in first bpdc from previous round, *sc in each st across, sc in ch1 sp, ch1, fpdc around 5tr-pc, ch1, sc in next ch1 sp* around. Join with ss in the first sc made.      ~ 204 sc, 4 fpdc, 8 ch1 sps

And your first square in the series of 9 squares is done..!!

Thank you for choosing my pattern.

And now it is time for today’s WoW (Words of Wisdom).

The above quote is taken from “Heathens” by Amanda Richardson, would like to quote few more lines from “The Realm of You” by same author.

“We have the same hiding places—the same dark parts. I see these things in you, because I recognize them in myself. I see the sorrow behind your smile. I see the love behind your anger. I see the reason behind your silence. And I know we have a long way to go, but I want to go there with you.”

Hope you are enjoying my patterns as well as some bits of reading from here and there.

Happy crocheting..!!

Love,

Jessica